april 2023 – Sailing with Saphir

Leaving Marquesaöarna and sailing to Tuamotuöarna

After a bit hassle with the Esta application we finally got it to work and could get back to the boat and hoist the anchor at 11 a clock. Some of our Arc boats went out at the same time but just to go to an other bay on the island. We was the only one sailing to Tuamotos.

We had a good sailing. Doing 7 knots with the spinnaker up. I am so glad that we have Chris onboard. Specially now when I still have so much pain in my tailbone. It is hard to find a way to sit with no pressure on it, stand up can also be painful and even turning in bed is. Hope it will be better in a few days.

Just befor dinner time Chris says look there are dolphins here. This time they stayed around the boat for 30 minutes. We do think it was around 50 of them. It was so great to have them around the boat and I did get a good video when one of the jumped. What a great ending of our first sailing day. Next thing will be to catch a fish. The fishing stick and New is fixed after some shopping in Nuku Hiva .

We took three hours shift from 19.00 to 07.00. That means that one have to do 2 shifts one night. I took the first one and hope that we will be there before the forth night. It was a lovely night filled with lots of stars and the moon shining bright. So this time I was awake during sun set and sunrise. I do enjoy them very much

I had Edgar laying up in the cockpit on the first shift since he was not feeling good. First he tought he was getting seasick and then his stomach started to ache. Don’t know if he had gotten some bad food or what. Once again happy that it is not only me and Edgar on the boat.

Day two and we still have the spinnaker up and doing 7 kn. Since it is quit calm I decided to fill the freezer with some cinnamon buns and bread. Maybe not the best idea to bake in this heat but it is worth it afterwards.

The wind changed so Edgar and Chris went up and change the sail and took out the spinnaker boom on the starboard side. According to the weather institute we was not going to have much wind

My night was was between 01.00-04.00. It was a good sailing but we was going a bit to much north. In the morning the guys took of the bom and we could take the right course straight to Raroia. Now we only have 30 hours to be there in time so we could get in to the reef due to sight and current. So far so good. Keeping a speed between 6.5-7,2. The fishing gear is in the water and after an hour we see a lot of birds flying around and some fish jumping and it took 15 min and we hear bang. Our fishing line went of. Good that we bought two new tassels. Chris made a new ending so let’s see if we can catch a fish….

The ocean is big and we don’t see any ships often but suddenly there is one huge container ship coming in to our plotter and it is quite close but has a speed almost triple ours so we could follow our run line and not need to change course.

The weather forecast was right this time the wind dropped around 15.00 so we had to put on the engine to be able to keep our timetable. Now the watch is easier so the guys plays backgammon on the iPad.

The fishing went not well. We did get one on the hook but the line went of. No it is time to get a new roll and line that is much stronger so we can get some fish.

We arrive just after lunch early to Raroia and greets bye dolphins on the way in. It was a bit tricky but the captain did a great job. We anchored just outside the village and it was only us here so far.

Hugs Eva

Marquesses Island Nuku Hiva

In the morning we left Oa Pua to go to Nuku Hiva where we there will be the gathering with dinner and price giving award for leg 4 from Galapagos to Hiva Ou. It is a short sailing and we arrived around lunchtimme and decided to fill up the diesel. We had to wait for a while since there was two boat before us. It was a new way of docking to fill up. We had to drop the anchor revers back and through a line to land. It was a bit tricky but we managed it between the three of us.

We missed the welcoming gathering during the day since it took a while to fill up . In the evening we went up for the dinner, prize giving award and performances organised by the World Arc. First the locals danced for us and after that it was time for the men and then the ladies. We had a nice evening and was the one that had the closest answer on the total width of all boats.

A day to do some maintenance and shopping was on the schedule. I went for the shopping and took the opportunity to look around the village and to use our gift card we recived from the prize award. Lovely view around the village. In the evening we went over to Cepa to say bye to Ebo that is going home to Germany. We where many people from the boats around so when we wanted to go in the dinghy it was little hard to clime over to our dinghy.

In the morning we had a rain shower and after that a lovely rainbow appeared. We had planned to leave the day before in the afternoon to Tuamotos island but we had to stay one more night to make some paperwork in the morning with the gendarmeri since Chris need to be registrated on our boat . Best was that we then also had time to apply for our Esta since we fly via USA when we fly home. It took a while to fix that. When it was done we took up the anchor and started our three nights sailing.

Hugs Eva

Marquesa island Tuahana and OaPua

Time to move on but first settled in our new crew member Chris how will join us all the way to Papeete . He and his lovely wife Anne together with Clause helped us true the Panama Canal. We had a great time on the boat all of us on the trip so looking forward to have Chris whit us to Tahiti

Our first stop was at Tahuata wich was only a few hours sailing from Hiva Oa. We anchored outside the village Vaitahu. Here was only two boats anchored when we arrived and none from ARC. This looked to be a very calm bay no rolling during day and night. Finally we hopefully will sleep a hole night without waking up due to that we roll around in our bed. It is hard to describe but this rolling don’t let your body rest totally. The body is always moving you try to build up pillows next to you or find a position that keeps you as still as possible. On top off that it is very warm so when I wake up I feel like a bulldozer have driven over me. After a swim in the Sea it fels better. I do can see a point of having a hammock to sleep in on a boat. Just berfore sunset came Cacciqui V in and anchored. We had them all over for a sun downer.

The day af we all went in to the water and continued to clean the hull. It took a wile and there was some kind of burning things in the water so I couldn’t stay in. Edgar and Chris finished the cleaning. After that we went in to town to have a look. Due to Edgars knee he didn’t want join on the walk around so he found a place in the shadow while me an Chris took a walk. We had a great walk and tried to find a sim card to Chris but no luck with that. It is fantastic here grows a lot of fruit wild like bananas, mangos, lemons and some that I don’t know what it is. In the Center of the city is the church located. A very beautiful building and so is the inside. Love the woodwork on the side door .

When we came back we found Edgar at one of the restaurant together with CassiqueV and Lonestare. We had a really nice lunch and top off that we got some live music as well. After that we went back to the boat to snorkel a bit. Not that much to see and sadly the water was not that clear as it looked at the dinghy dock. Clumsy me manage to sit done on the handle hit my tailbome very bad when I was going to put on my find to go snorkel. The pain was not that bad so I went snorkelling. Let see how it will go with that. It do hurt to sit if I get pressure on the tailbone.

In the afternoon we went back in to town to learn how to play petanque. Which is variant of boule game. This is a very popular game here.It didn’t go that well but it was fun.

Since we wanted to visit at least one more island we decided to night sail up to Oa Pou. First a quick stop in the next bay to watch the sunset from the beach and have dinner. We ended not going in to the beach since we didn’t trust the anchor.

After dinner we hoist the sails and together with lots of other boats we headed to Oa Poa. The wind was really good in the beginning but around midnight it was more or less gone and we only made 2 knots so the engine was on again for a while until we got some wind again.

The scenery is fantastic when we get closer to Oa Pou. These Volcano Marquesas island are astounding.

Once again we greeted by dolphins just outside the harbour

Here was quite few more boat anchored than last place, but we found a place behind the wave breaker. We have breakfast and then Edgar drives me and Chris to land. Edgar will stay in the boat while me and Chris explore the island together with Alex, Rebecca,Andy,Andy and Mario from CassiqueV. First we got Chris his SIM card and refill for us. We checked out the handicraft market. Many nice things and some quit expensive. They do know how to charge there things which is good .

A car is rented so Alex drives us around the island. First visit is the chocolate man and the next the waterfall. After an hour drive we are in the village where the chocolate man and waterfall is or both are a bit outside the village. Very please that we got a car and did not walk all the way which was a discussion first. We starts to walk but realice it is quite far away still and up the hills in the heat. Alex went back to get the car and the rest of us decides to walk slowly upwards. On the way up I found a mango three that is named Eva. No mangos to taste though. When Alex arrives the car is already quit full with the family from the boat Pachamama. So nice to see them. We all drives up to the chocolate man and looks at his place. Unfortunately he didn’t show us his working place but all of us bought some chocolate from him.

After that me, Chris and Rebecca walked the 2 km to the waterfall. Wow what a place. So fantastic and clear fresh water and very beautiful.

One of the Andy’s wanted to do a hike up the mountain so the rest of us took a drive down to the village and the harbour where Pachamama was anchored. On the way down we picked up The family on BlueSunshine that also was in the same bay as Pachamama. After that we continued to the next village to se if we could get something to eat and drink. After some help we found the store which was in small shelter on the owners ground. She invited us to have our drinks on her veranda. Once again we got music played for us.

On the way back we got some really heavy rain and we got soaking wet. But after rains come sunshine. We past the airport and the landing strip is seated in a valley . Just next to the sea.

Almost back we see that our boats is still laying safe in the bay. In the harbour there is a modern Tika that is a fishing man. Looks like he is very proude fisherman.

Hugs to all that read my blogg. So glad to get some feedback from you😘

Eva

Marquesas island Hiva-Oa

Wow what a view to wake up to. These volcano island has a fantastic scenery. More or less half of the fleet had already arrived and a few of them also left for the next island. The anchoring area is not that big and there are a few others boats as well here that is not part of the Arc. Our gathering after crossing the Pacific is first on the 29 in Nuku Hiva. Here on Hiva-Oa we have to register us in to the country before we can sail around on the others islands.

We plan to stay here for 4 nights to relax, clean the boat, a bit sightseeing fill up with some fresh groceries (which was not easy to get) . The next morning we start with the registration that takes the hole day divided up in a morning meeting and an afternoon meeting in town, where we managed to get SIM card so we can communicate with the rest of the world. I am so looking forward to Starlink. Then we will at least have internet all the time on the boat. Will still continue to buy a sim card I guess when we are arrive in different countries so we can have internet access on land when we are on excursions. In the harbour we saw Paladin the boat that rescued our friend on Cepa and took him to hospital in Nuku Hiva. The harbour have a shower but don’t think we will use it.

The hull was very dirty and full with soft creatures don’t know what they are called, also lots of barnacles and this green thin grass . The hull really needed to be cleaned. I started to do a bit but it took so long time since it really was stuck on the boat.

After that work we spent the next day up at the lodge having lunch with Clare and Mark from Amanzi and enjoying time by the pool. In the evening we had dinner with many of our boat friends.

The day after we went on a guided tour with our fantastic guide Jon together with part of our boat friends. We had a great day driving around on the island. We saw the smiling Tika that was well hidden in the forest. After that we went to Ilpuna on the north west of the island. There was a big place (previous village)with lots off Tikas and also the biggest Tika in the world. They have built roof over the Tikas to protect them from natural erupted and not letting people touch them. This is part of a process to get them be acknowledged by unesco. After that we had a fantastic lunch before we turn back towards the harbour

First we did a stop where they make the Tikas out of wood and was showed the tools and procedure. I do regret that I didn’t buy one but they was a bit big though.

In the evening we had dinner at the lodge again with a dance performance off the inhabitants. It was a great evening and fantastic dance and music. I am so impressed by all of them working so hard in the heat. Even if the sun is gone it is still very hot.

Next morning we got very sad news from Edgars brother. Their mother had passed away. She has been getting weaker and weaker rapidly in the end of her more than 90 years life time but it’s always sad when it finally happens. We will miss here dearly and she will always be in our hearts. The next couple of days we took it slowly and made the arrangements we need to be able to fly home for the funeral and a last goodbye and thank you. Feels very good to come home at this time and hug you family for a week.

The picture is when she visited us on our boat 5 years ago

Hugs Eva