Sailing with Saphir af Stockholm – Sailing with Saphir

Galápagos Islands Part 1 San Cristóbal

We arrived early in the morning to San Cristóbal and just before we where going to anchor the sky literally opened up. Luckily I have a really good yellow raincoat to keep me dry. After three tries we are anchored and have put up our presening to keep the rain out from the cockpit. Time for some breakfast and some sleep.

Due to the restrictions we had to stay on the boat until the boat had been cleared in and checked the hull by a diver and inside by 10 different people from different authorities for anything we are not allowed to bring with us from others countries. We was told that our frozen meat was going to be sealed but they didn’t do that although some other boats got their meat sealed Lots of paperwork. The immigration lady had left when they arrived to our boat at 17 so we will do that the next morning . Now we are good to go a shore.

We can’t use our own dinghy due to all the sea lions so we have to rely on taxi boats. There are sea lions all over this city mostly of course on the rocks and beaches but some of them also goes up in to the town. There was also a few lizards in town and we was told that it is their breeding season so they come up and lay there eggs on land.

We went diving around the kicker rock . It was great. We saw lots of hamar sharks, black tip sharks, some turtles, one mantra and lots of other small fishes. Need to get a book to know little more about all these fishes we see.

Every evening there was happy hour at the hotel where the Arc crew was stationed and most of us went there to meet up before dinner. Lots off different restaurants here to choose from so no eating in the boat for us. I am happy since I get a lot of fish to eat. Haven’t been much of that in the boat. No luck in fishing . We take taxi boat in and out and also when we fill up the diesel they come out with it in a boat

The Arc had a half day trip booked for us to see part of the island. We went to a turtle nursery? The land turtles was getting less due to humans. Know the amount is growing again and the inhabitants are involved in keeping the turtles safe.

We also went to a very lovely beach on the other side of the island. There was some sea lions around the rocks sleeping and if we would have stayed until five we might have seen sharks. Lots of salamanders also and this one was not afraid he just looked at me. There was this little creature p

Next stop was a crater filled with water and a fantastic view. It was very high up, many steps and so wort it. Sadly Edgars knee was not good so he missed it.

Walking around in SanCristobal you see a lot off different houses and styles. Some are still under construction and at the same time the finished part is already rented out and opened up businesses in and living in.

The last evening on San Cristóbal Christian on Hoka hey organised a dinner for al of us at The Pier. Almost everyone came so at the end we where around 70 people. We had a great evening with all our friends.

When it rains it rains heavy so it makes sense to have the big drains system in the streets. Can’t have inlay without a sun set or two

Hugs Eva

Galapagos part 2 visiting Isabela

We set sail just before sunset and head towards the largest island in Galapagos although it is only populated in the south East corner . Our instrument is not with us…. No wind, depth or speed again… grrr. Hope we can (Edgar) can figure out the problem soon. It is very nice to know where the wind is coming from ( yes you can see it )and the strength and also when we arrive to an anchor place it is much easier if we know the depth under us and not only rely on what the plotter/map is saying.

It was a calm night sailing or motor sailing is more correct. Not much wind after the first 2 hours so the iron genua had to work. We arrived early morning to Isabela. Lots of Arc boats was already there. After we had anchored we had some breakfast and then both of us needed some sleep. Before exploring the island.

Once again we had to rely on taxi boats since we was not allowed to use our dinghy due to our 2 stroke engine. Here there was less taxiboats and double price (2$/per person) compared to San Cristóbal. Glad we are only two of us and not 7 as on Blue Sunshine. Although they can and are using their dinghy. Luckily for us it would show a bit later in the afternoon.. We went in later in the afternoon to look around and to get something to eat. It is carneval time so it was a big celebration going on on the beach with food tent, loud music, beach volleyball game and lots of people enjoying them self. In the middle of this it started to rain and we tried to find a place to have food. Lots of places was closed and just when we found one place the phone rang. It was Annie on Maroro. Our boat had made a huge turn in the water when the wind blew up and hit the big yellow buoy. When we came back to our boat Clas from BlueSunshine was onboard and keeping her not to hit the buoy again. It was a bit caiotic as it was raining heavily also and some other boats had changed the anchor place since the drifted. We moved us far out to be safe and stayed on the boat rest of the evening and played rumikub.

This is how it looked the day after the rain in town

The next days we explored the island together with Petra, Michel and Fluer from Pippin. We saw some Flamingos, the Turtel Center where they help to bread up the turtles and but them back out to the wild when they are around five years old , we rented bikes and biked to the wall of tears. On the way out there we saw many turtles in the wild and at the wall of tears in the rain we meet a lonely turtle walking along the wall. This wall was built by prisoner during the years between 1945- 1959 for no purpose and the cost many lives.

Not as many seal lions here as in SanCristobal but much more leguans. These are the black leguans. They where everywhere hanging around or swimming .

The last evening on Isabela we had a sundowner together with Petra,Michael, Fleur and Britta,Thomas and Ann(Cepa) at the beach. Our great funny waiter taking photos . To the drinks we was served popcorn and roasted bananas. Very nice.

Hugs Eva

Galapagos Part3 Santa Cruz

Early morning we left Isabela and steered to Santa Cruz. Not much wind (so the iron genua had to work)and a quiet sea and sun fog? dis? We have Pippin behind us and Pec ahead of us whom we passed later. There was some small island north of Isabela and one of them looked like a turtle

Most of the times when you see land after been sailing a day or more it feels like you are not getting closer and that it take so long time to reach the harbour. It felt like that this time as well. Finally we have the anchor in the water and head in to town to meet the other from the fleet.This time our meeting point was a bar/restaurant. Really nice food . Had lunch there few times.

We was warned that it can be rolling a bit so a stern anchor cold be good to have. We didn’t do that since nobody else did. After a few nights we moved the boat and it made a ugh difference. We actually felt almost sea-sick on the boat and it was hard to anything when you was thrown around on the boat. Always needed one hand holding on when you moved on the boat as if we was sailing.. Here is a movie from one of the nights.

Edgars knees was very swollen and heart when he walks so I took a day walking around the area. It was very nice to have land under my feet and not being on this rolling boat. I ended up walking 18 215 steps. Passed some different houses, a dis market where the seals, iguanas and birds was begging for some fish. I saw this lovely arch made of mosaic. I walked in and saw the fantastic wall and the lovely chair. Time to save the broken plates,cup ect to a further project…. Here they also have a a turtle breeding( didn’t visit that one)a Charles Darwin institute, where you can read about his work on the island. I walked down to the beach that we could see from the boat. It was next to the Darwin institute. It was low tide so the lava rock was shown a lot. Had a lovely swim there later with the crew from Solana V.

On our wedding anniversary we went out for dinner only the two of us. They have the same sushi restaurant here as in San Cristóbal that we really liked. Next to the restaurant we had a live music. According to our waiter this was the most famous band on the island. It was very nice to have live music and extra great that they where really good.

We had sundowners every evening together with the rest of the fleet before going out to dinner. They organised one men /ladies evening which was very nice. For the price giving evening I help Sara of Sweden to decorate a jacket that is a honouring prices moving around the fleet. I had a sewing lesson with Alex and Inez and I finished it up with the two Swedish flag in the end

Doing the last shopping at the market, some washing. At the pier we saw lots of white tip and black tip sharks and also very small mantra. Even the sea lions was here but not that many. They did have a bigger pier for all the taxi boats here and they operated more frequently, so it was easy to go back and forward to the boat.

Time to say bye bye to Galapagos and get ready for the longest sailing for us, 3000 NM crossing the Pacific Ocean. So time to sleep.

Hugs Eva

Crossing the Equator and getting to Galapagos

Tjohoo we have wind and depth , lets hope it will work all the way. (It did for a while) Now we are ready to sail to Galapagos and cross the equator along the way! Even the birds are ready for our start.

It is quite exiting and fun to have this start together with the fleet. The first day we can see more or less the hole fleet on the Ais but next day less and less. Good we have SSB radio call twice per day and gets reports every morning from the Rallycontrol so we know where all are and that they are fine.

We pass our friend Jörgen and Louise on their boat Sara of Sweden. This time our boat was faster… maybe because we had new paint or?? The wind is really good and also the current so we sail between 9-10.5 kn for 2 days. It is a bit rolling but not to bad. Following days I watch the sunrise during my watch and some are better then others. Sunset is also very nice and can be a bit fun when a ship comes along.

Then the wind dies out and the Wales on the sea. Now I know why we call it Stilla havet and not Pacific Ocean. It is totally calm no winds no waves. It is actually fantastic to see this big ocean so calm it makes me want to take swim. First day was a bit scary I held on to the boat. Next day I dared to swim a bit and the third I went around the boat and cleaned it. Sorry no pictures proof since my dear husband kept an eye on me and didn’t take any pictures. Might be coming some later on the next leg.

Now there is not much to do so we relax enjoy the calm sea, trying to fish but no luck, looking if we can spot any dolphins,wales or some life. The one we see is this small fly fishes and birds near us. We did spot some dolphins but they came briefly and might spotted wales on far distance. We heard from an other boat that they had around 50 dolphins coming towards them and some of them past them very close. One morning I had company by a bird who slept on our spinnaker boom. Tried his wings when the sun came up but decided to stay a little longer on the boom. A bit cold in the morning hours so the bandanna kept my ears warm. Once in a while we spot our friends on the plotter even if we can’t see them with our own eyes.

We starting to get close to the equator so it is time to prepare us and celebrate that we have crossed it by our own boat. There is a photo competition in the WARC fleet who takes the best photo so we thought we also will contribute to that.

We heard on the radio that many of the boats have had problems with birds pooing on their boat. We have been okay until the last night before we getting to Galapagos….. the boat was covered in bird poos. I do understand why ,since they where flying around us during night for many hours trying to find a place to sit on the boat and get some fly fishes that flies in front of the aft when we come sailing.

We see land and can also smell the soil or what it is. Lots of turtles are swimming around but they are very shy and dives as soon as they hear us coming to close. After five day’s on the sea it is nice to be anchored and see some of the other fleet boats. We came in as the sixth boat so it is quite empty here so far. Guess that most of the fleet will be here before sunset. There is a reason why we should not use our dinghies… lots of sea lions here trying to get on your dinghy or your boat if you haven’t blocked the bath jetty on the stern of the boat.

There is something in the water .. might be a manta ray that is relaxing

Now we have until the 28 February to enjoy three island here in Galapagos before we leave for Marquesas on the 1 of March.

Still loves to have comments . Hugs Eva

Las Perlas

We topped up the boat and then started our 45NM to Las Perlas . Lovely to see the Panama skyline from the sea.

It is not much wind so we motorsail down to Las Perlas and the Island Contadora where most off the fleet is anchored and getting prepared for the sailing to Galapagos.

Due to that our 1 autopilot still isn’t working after trying different ways Edgar decide to connect the autopilot direct from the steering to the box. So now we have a cable from the sofa in our bedroom through the kitchen and up in to the autopilot connection. When we not ursine it it is easy to disconnect and let the cable hang on the inside of the boat. In the evening we had barbecue and prize giving ceremoni for the leg Santa Marta to SanBlas. Our friends on Sara of Sweden won their group and we came in third in ours. Our sailsetting is still great for us, so we keep it for a while, twSo nice to meet up everyone after some went earlier from ShelterBay and had left when we came to Panama.

The day after we had Olympic Games on the beach with most of the boats involved. It was great fun and lots off laughs and lots of ”kämpar glöd” on all parts. Thank you Louise for arranging it it was so fun.

Skippers breifing, a sundowner and then dinner at an Italian restaurant that made it a special evening for us. The chef was fantastic, he had prepared a set menu for all of us and wow this was good. If you ever go to Las Perlas and Contadora Island don’t miss Casa Tortugos. Ended up buying a Panama hat as well. In the morning I saw Louise up in the mast . Bravo lady.

Panama city

We arrive late afternoon and was greeted by Swade from ARC. First we have a drink on the deck after a great day on the Panama Canal. We say Thank you to our crew when they leave us and looking forward to have more crew onboard again.It is very nice to have company onboard from time to time. Next one that is planned is Eva that will join us from Tahiti

First some shopping again to Allbroke mall. Found me new shoes so now I can use my fine shoes as fine shoes again. In the late afternoon we take a taxi and get in to old town together with Michel, Petra and Fleur. Lots off nice renovated houses and also lots that needs some attention . A drink on the rooftop before dinner and then more drinks on the next rooftop with lots WARC(world arc) friends.

Sunday morning we went on WARC guided tour of Panamas history and visit to old town. Our guide was great and have lots of energy and pumped us with so much interesting history about Panama and the canal. One was about the big riot when the student demanded that the American school in the Canal Zone also should have the Panama Flagg outside there school and not the American. This costed many students life and today there is a memorial site in the previous canal zone.

We went up to a fantastic view point. On the way we say a sloth sleeping in the three. Up at the top we had view over the canal, American bridge, yatch harbour and Panama city.

After that we went in to old town and got to see some more nice places and the old church. On the way in we pass a not so very nice area with lots off graffiti and very sad houses. After the tour we went for lunch with the group in a new open Italian restaurant. I saw a painting on the way there that I really loved but unfortunately the shop was closed so Erika maybe you like to make your mother happy in between your knitting?

Tomorrow we will fill up with diesel and then head down to Las Perlas. Would have loved to have some more days here in Panama but it is time to move on.

Hugs Eva

Panama Canal 1feb-2feb

Wednesday morning and we are ready to go trough the Panama Canal. Our crew Clause, Chris and Anne arrives in the morning and I was baking since there was no good bread to find. No we just wait for our adviser to come so we can leave. All boats need an adviser from the canal onboard and also five adult on each boat. When arrives we leave the marine and starts to motoring towards the first lock.

Just in front off the first lock we make a nest with Lover of the light and Cacique IV. Then slowly we go in the lock and having the three other nest behind us. We are in and attached in Gatun lock. The line holders made a great job with reviving the lines from land.

Two more locks and we will be staying by a buoy over night in the lake. The Gatun lock have a web camera so this journey any one can follow as I wrote on instagram and fb. Ella was trying to see us but we are first far out on the way in and then when we are in the lock we are very deep. It is our nests mast you see.

Last lock and it is still light. We head to the buoys where we attach us to wich was not easy at all since it was blowing hard and a lot off waves.

Next morning the adviser arrives around 8.30. We get a new adviser Oscar who has been working with this for over 20 years. So happy we got him feels much better than the previous one. We get lose from our nest around they buoy and start our motoring on the lake for some hours before we arrives in San Pedro lock.

Time to tighten the nest for San Pedro lock and after that Milaflores where you can see the lock live. Here Ella is also once again with us even if it is pass bedtime for her back home in Sweden.

We have done the Panama Canal and now it is just less then an hour before we are in La Plaita Marina. Letting the nest go and also our adviser. One of the picture is a big crane working to lift up an anchor and the chain from a huge ship that cut it off when they got on fire. All went well with the crew and the boat needs some attention. Now we will have three nights in the Marina before we leave for Las Perlas and then Galapagos

It has been a great adventure going the canal with the World Arc Fleet and extra nice to have company on the boat. It’s been a pleasure to have Anne, Chris and Clause onboard. We would love to have more company on our sailing. So glad that we will get Eva onboard from Tahiti.

Hugs Eva

Days in Shelterbay

Saphir went up on land and we check in to the hotel in Shelterbay. It is very nice to sleep in a air conditioned room so we decided not to sleep on the boat when it is on land. The hotel was full so we book a room in Colon. Not a place where you feel safe walking around in and it is very poor and many broken houses

A bit shopping was also done with Lorraine and Annie. Trying to find a new pare of good walking sandals since I manage to forget mine on one of the island in SanBlas.Not easy to find they only have flip flops and sneakers. It was so nice to have two hours going shopping . Ended up with a Panama hat, basing suit and some groceries. Me and Edgar went shopping and got a ride back home to the boat from the shop. Now we should have enough of soft drinks,beer and wine until New Zealand we think…. We are good to go on the Panama Canal after inspection from the canal. On the skippers briefing we was inform how we will attach our boats to each other when we go in the locks and how we will attach us during the night on a big buoy. We are the middle boat in the nest.

I joined a guided tour with Sara of Sweden and parts from BlueSunshine to Gatun locks which is the first lock we are going trough in the Panama Canal. The museum is where the new lock is, not the old where we are going trough. It was very interesting and fascinating to see. The locks are huge 55m wide and 427 long and these are only for the enormous big ships. The pools are for reuse the water and safes around 50% that would have just gone out in the ocean. It is not only the locks that keeps control of the lake not flooding. There is a trap door that when it is open it provides with electricity.

The ARC organised a guided tour to one of the natives village Embera village in Charge national park. This was a fantastic trip. First an hour in the bus then 45 min in canoe until we reached the village. They live very close to how they always have lived. Although even they are getting effected/ influenced what happens in the rest of the world. They have a school that is provided from the government up to 6 grade and after that they go to school in the nearby city. Some stay and some comes back to live in the village. In this village there was 132 people living in 40 different houses. One of there income is to sell products that they make. We bought some baskets that are made out of bamboo. They use leaf, nuts ect to colour the bamboo. We had a lovely lunch served on bamboo leafs, and some dancing. We really enjoyed our day here in the jungle.

Tomorrow our crew comes to help us trough the canal.

Hugs Eva

SanBlas a place in paradis.

We had few lovely days in this paradise before we left for Shelterbay to lift the boat. This is paradis, wish we could stay for more days. Easy relaxing life at SanBlas anchoring and just jump in to the water, walk around the island, meeting our sailing friends, grill party , snorkelling ,paddling (getting better). Lots of pictures for you to enjoy.

Last dip in Caribbean for this time. Next time it will be in the Pacific. Lots of boats near the entrens to the canal. Up again with the boat to get it painted before we leave for Galapagos.

Hugs Eva

Santa Marta to SanBlas 240NM or 430 km ish

Time to sail over to SanBlas. Looking forward seeing this paradise in about 40 hours. We got company buy these two lovebirds that probably have started build a nest. Hope they just started to build a nest.

Start shot came and we sail east and some of is slightly more south. After a couple of hours we came in to a really dirty water. This is from the river that comes out next to the city Barranguilla. From other boats we learn to be careful and keep good watch since there might come a three or anything else in the water that the river brings along.

Lovely sunsets and sunrise. Love them and continue pinching my arm to realise that we are hear and doing this fantastic adventure. We didn’t see many other boats with our eyes ther came a ship and also our friend boat Enalia suddenly cross just in front of us.

Almost at the finish line. Count down. We need to pass 078 30 000 W and at 02 58 23 we passed the finish line. It took us around 4 hours more before we where anchored in Holandais Cay close to our friends on Sara of Sweden. This looks fantastic and here we will stay for some days.

Hugs Eva