Sail away with me – Sailing with Saphir

Galápagos Islands Part 1 San Cristóbal

We arrived early in the morning to San Cristóbal and just before we where going to anchor the sky literally opened up. Luckily I have a really good yellow raincoat to keep me dry. After three tries we are anchored and have put up our presening to keep the rain out from the cockpit. Time for some breakfast and some sleep.

Due to the restrictions we had to stay on the boat until the boat had been cleared in and checked the hull by a diver and inside by 10 different people from different authorities for anything we are not allowed to bring with us from others countries. We was told that our frozen meat was going to be sealed but they didn’t do that although some other boats got their meat sealed Lots of paperwork. The immigration lady had left when they arrived to our boat at 17 so we will do that the next morning . Now we are good to go a shore.

We can’t use our own dinghy due to all the sea lions so we have to rely on taxi boats. There are sea lions all over this city mostly of course on the rocks and beaches but some of them also goes up in to the town. There was also a few lizards in town and we was told that it is their breeding season so they come up and lay there eggs on land.

We went diving around the kicker rock . It was great. We saw lots of hamar sharks, black tip sharks, some turtles, one mantra and lots of other small fishes. Need to get a book to know little more about all these fishes we see.

Every evening there was happy hour at the hotel where the Arc crew was stationed and most of us went there to meet up before dinner. Lots off different restaurants here to choose from so no eating in the boat for us. I am happy since I get a lot of fish to eat. Haven’t been much of that in the boat. No luck in fishing . We take taxi boat in and out and also when we fill up the diesel they come out with it in a boat

The Arc had a half day trip booked for us to see part of the island. We went to a turtle nursery? The land turtles was getting less due to humans. Know the amount is growing again and the inhabitants are involved in keeping the turtles safe.

We also went to a very lovely beach on the other side of the island. There was some sea lions around the rocks sleeping and if we would have stayed until five we might have seen sharks. Lots of salamanders also and this one was not afraid he just looked at me. There was this little creature p

Next stop was a crater filled with water and a fantastic view. It was very high up, many steps and so wort it. Sadly Edgars knee was not good so he missed it.

Walking around in SanCristobal you see a lot off different houses and styles. Some are still under construction and at the same time the finished part is already rented out and opened up businesses in and living in.

The last evening on San Cristóbal Christian on Hoka hey organised a dinner for al of us at The Pier. Almost everyone came so at the end we where around 70 people. We had a great evening with all our friends.

When it rains it rains heavy so it makes sense to have the big drains system in the streets. Can’t have inlay without a sun set or two

Hugs Eva

Galapagos part 2 visiting Isabela

We set sail just before sunset and head towards the largest island in Galapagos although it is only populated in the south East corner . Our instrument is not with us…. No wind, depth or speed again… grrr. Hope we can (Edgar) can figure out the problem soon. It is very nice to know where the wind is coming from ( yes you can see it )and the strength and also when we arrive to an anchor place it is much easier if we know the depth under us and not only rely on what the plotter/map is saying.

It was a calm night sailing or motor sailing is more correct. Not much wind after the first 2 hours so the iron genua had to work. We arrived early morning to Isabela. Lots of Arc boats was already there. After we had anchored we had some breakfast and then both of us needed some sleep. Before exploring the island.

Once again we had to rely on taxi boats since we was not allowed to use our dinghy due to our 2 stroke engine. Here there was less taxiboats and double price (2$/per person) compared to San Cristóbal. Glad we are only two of us and not 7 as on Blue Sunshine. Although they can and are using their dinghy. Luckily for us it would show a bit later in the afternoon.. We went in later in the afternoon to look around and to get something to eat. It is carneval time so it was a big celebration going on on the beach with food tent, loud music, beach volleyball game and lots of people enjoying them self. In the middle of this it started to rain and we tried to find a place to have food. Lots of places was closed and just when we found one place the phone rang. It was Annie on Maroro. Our boat had made a huge turn in the water when the wind blew up and hit the big yellow buoy. When we came back to our boat Clas from BlueSunshine was onboard and keeping her not to hit the buoy again. It was a bit caiotic as it was raining heavily also and some other boats had changed the anchor place since the drifted. We moved us far out to be safe and stayed on the boat rest of the evening and played rumikub.

This is how it looked the day after the rain in town

The next days we explored the island together with Petra, Michel and Fluer from Pippin. We saw some Flamingos, the Turtel Center where they help to bread up the turtles and but them back out to the wild when they are around five years old , we rented bikes and biked to the wall of tears. On the way out there we saw many turtles in the wild and at the wall of tears in the rain we meet a lonely turtle walking along the wall. This wall was built by prisoner during the years between 1945- 1959 for no purpose and the cost many lives.

Not as many seal lions here as in SanCristobal but much more leguans. These are the black leguans. They where everywhere hanging around or swimming .

The last evening on Isabela we had a sundowner together with Petra,Michael, Fleur and Britta,Thomas and Ann(Cepa) at the beach. Our great funny waiter taking photos . To the drinks we was served popcorn and roasted bananas. Very nice.

Hugs Eva

Panama Canal 1feb-2feb

Wednesday morning and we are ready to go trough the Panama Canal. Our crew Clause, Chris and Anne arrives in the morning and I was baking since there was no good bread to find. No we just wait for our adviser to come so we can leave. All boats need an adviser from the canal onboard and also five adult on each boat. When arrives we leave the marine and starts to motoring towards the first lock.

Just in front off the first lock we make a nest with Lover of the light and Cacique IV. Then slowly we go in the lock and having the three other nest behind us. We are in and attached in Gatun lock. The line holders made a great job with reviving the lines from land.

Two more locks and we will be staying by a buoy over night in the lake. The Gatun lock have a web camera so this journey any one can follow as I wrote on instagram and fb. Ella was trying to see us but we are first far out on the way in and then when we are in the lock we are very deep. It is our nests mast you see.

Last lock and it is still light. We head to the buoys where we attach us to wich was not easy at all since it was blowing hard and a lot off waves.

Next morning the adviser arrives around 8.30. We get a new adviser Oscar who has been working with this for over 20 years. So happy we got him feels much better than the previous one. We get lose from our nest around they buoy and start our motoring on the lake for some hours before we arrives in San Pedro lock.

Time to tighten the nest for San Pedro lock and after that Milaflores where you can see the lock live. Here Ella is also once again with us even if it is pass bedtime for her back home in Sweden.

We have done the Panama Canal and now it is just less then an hour before we are in La Plaita Marina. Letting the nest go and also our adviser. One of the picture is a big crane working to lift up an anchor and the chain from a huge ship that cut it off when they got on fire. All went well with the crew and the boat needs some attention. Now we will have three nights in the Marina before we leave for Las Perlas and then Galapagos

It has been a great adventure going the canal with the World Arc Fleet and extra nice to have company on the boat. It’s been a pleasure to have Anne, Chris and Clause onboard. We would love to have more company on our sailing. So glad that we will get Eva onboard from Tahiti.

Hugs Eva

Days in Shelterbay

Saphir went up on land and we check in to the hotel in Shelterbay. It is very nice to sleep in a air conditioned room so we decided not to sleep on the boat when it is on land. The hotel was full so we book a room in Colon. Not a place where you feel safe walking around in and it is very poor and many broken houses

A bit shopping was also done with Lorraine and Annie. Trying to find a new pare of good walking sandals since I manage to forget mine on one of the island in SanBlas.Not easy to find they only have flip flops and sneakers. It was so nice to have two hours going shopping . Ended up with a Panama hat, basing suit and some groceries. Me and Edgar went shopping and got a ride back home to the boat from the shop. Now we should have enough of soft drinks,beer and wine until New Zealand we think…. We are good to go on the Panama Canal after inspection from the canal. On the skippers briefing we was inform how we will attach our boats to each other when we go in the locks and how we will attach us during the night on a big buoy. We are the middle boat in the nest.

I joined a guided tour with Sara of Sweden and parts from BlueSunshine to Gatun locks which is the first lock we are going trough in the Panama Canal. The museum is where the new lock is, not the old where we are going trough. It was very interesting and fascinating to see. The locks are huge 55m wide and 427 long and these are only for the enormous big ships. The pools are for reuse the water and safes around 50% that would have just gone out in the ocean. It is not only the locks that keeps control of the lake not flooding. There is a trap door that when it is open it provides with electricity.

The ARC organised a guided tour to one of the natives village Embera village in Charge national park. This was a fantastic trip. First an hour in the bus then 45 min in canoe until we reached the village. They live very close to how they always have lived. Although even they are getting effected/ influenced what happens in the rest of the world. They have a school that is provided from the government up to 6 grade and after that they go to school in the nearby city. Some stay and some comes back to live in the village. In this village there was 132 people living in 40 different houses. One of there income is to sell products that they make. We bought some baskets that are made out of bamboo. They use leaf, nuts ect to colour the bamboo. We had a lovely lunch served on bamboo leafs, and some dancing. We really enjoyed our day here in the jungle.

Tomorrow our crew comes to help us trough the canal.

Hugs Eva

Santa Marta to SanBlas 240NM or 430 km ish

Time to sail over to SanBlas. Looking forward seeing this paradise in about 40 hours. We got company buy these two lovebirds that probably have started build a nest. Hope they just started to build a nest.

Start shot came and we sail east and some of is slightly more south. After a couple of hours we came in to a really dirty water. This is from the river that comes out next to the city Barranguilla. From other boats we learn to be careful and keep good watch since there might come a three or anything else in the water that the river brings along.

Lovely sunsets and sunrise. Love them and continue pinching my arm to realise that we are hear and doing this fantastic adventure. We didn’t see many other boats with our eyes ther came a ship and also our friend boat Enalia suddenly cross just in front of us.

Almost at the finish line. Count down. We need to pass 078 30 000 W and at 02 58 23 we passed the finish line. It took us around 4 hours more before we where anchored in Holandais Cay close to our friends on Sara of Sweden. This looks fantastic and here we will stay for some days.

Hugs Eva

My Birthday

I had a great birthday. Started with a dip in the sea and at 11 we sailed to Mayreau to stay there on a bouy for the night. Sofia, Fredrik and Peter join us to celebrate my birthday at Mayreau beach club & villa. Had a fantastic day with lunch, hanging at the pool and dinner in the evening. Thank you Edgar for a great day spoiling me. Love you

Tobago Cays

Next morning we just went around the corner from Mayreau to Tabago Cays. This is a very popular place to snorkel and see a lovely sea life like turtles, rays and lots off fishes. Marie even saw a small shark out on the reef. Every morning I saw turtles coming swimming in to the reefs. First I saw a dark spot on the water and then a little head bright head.

We spent a few days here snorkelling, swimming, hanging with sailing friends and having a lobster dinner with them.

We said bye for now to Northstar that is going to pick up there daughter in St Lucia. After few rolling days in Tobago Cays we decided to join Mary to Sandy lane Marina in the south of Canouan. This is a very luxurious Marina. The facility is fantastic and the pool by the beach. You don’t think you are in Caribbean. Best is that the boat is still and we can have a calm night with air conditioning on. We are very happy that our friends on Zelda has arrived to St Lucia. It took them 25 days. It was a tough sailing with little wind. Well done

We heard from others that there was a nice bay on the east side of Union. We decided to meet up with Zelda there. When we arrived Elvira and BlueSunshine was there. Two off our sailing companions . Took a walk over to A to try a place that Mikael and Marianne was recommended by other sailers. A very colourful little restaurant and good food. Nice houses and views along the walk.

Finally we are in a calm bay so the stand up paddle board could be blown up and be used. It felt very shaky paddling but will be better I hope. Even if Lucia is passed I wanted to make more Lussebullar. This isn’t easy without saffron. I have tried to find it but with no luck until Mikael said he had some and was willing to give me some if I gave him Lussebullar in return. Can’t say no to that offer. Ended up having a lovely evening on our boat with the hole family from BlueSunshine and Elvira while the Lussebullar was made.

Next day Zelda arrived. So nice to see Sofia and Fredrik again. Haven’t seen them since we left Las Palmas in nov. We also got to meet Fredriks brother Peter that sailed with them across the Atlantic.

Hugs Eva

A week in Cape Verde

First day after a long sail is nice to relax and you really need it to. After that it is time for maintenance on the boat, from filling oil, get off all salt from deck,taking down sail which was a challange due to the wind. We went up 6.00 one morning to manage before it started to blow again.

There is also time for some adventure, like a tour on the Iland together with other Arc sailers. We went up to the top off the highest point and had a fantastic view. The sand is coming from Africa with the wind. This we even saw one day. You think it is foggy until you realise it is brownish It is very dry on this Iland so not much agriculture here. Had to put my feet in the water ofcurse and the guys was happy for all the stops to stretch there legs and relax from the bumpy road.

Arc have had a welcoming gattering with local music and dancing. We also had a price aword i n the first leg. We didnt get to the podium but we came in as nr 9 wich we are very please with since we thought we would come in in the middle.

I even had time for a run and walks around to explorer the city.

Now it is time to leave Cape Verde and head to Grenada . Will not miss the rocky and windy harbour but the nice view. bye bye Cape Verde.

Hugs Eva

Las Palmas to Cape Verde

Sunday 6 nov around 12.30 all boat’s in ArcPlus where outside the harbour and ready to start the sailing down to Cape Verde. We are 93 botas all in all, one motorborren and 21 catamaran. At 13.00 a clock the start went for us in one hull. The catamarans had started before us.

No wind in the beginning so we decided to go for motor the first two hours. This help us get out to the wind and gave us a great start together with our sail setting , great wind for 24 hours. Let’s see what it will cost us at the end. Due to the wind we decided to use both our genua and sail wing by wing. It was a good strategy. Bit hard in between to go up high in the wind.

The first night we had great wind and lovely sky. Not many boats out there that we could spot with our eyes but we saw a light out there. Next morning we got a short company of some dolphins

After a while we find new places to relax in

On Wednesday the Swedish boat Alexandra caught up on us and passed us very fast. They have a much faster sailing boat than us.

Lovely sunset and sunrises . Some knitting have been done also. Hopefully it will be more. Can’t get enough of the view here on the sea.. trying to catch it but it is not easy.

Lots of flying fishes. It is so great to see them flying. They fly very long and bounce on the waves. Not much more action on the sea a bird or two and we had pancakes mix in the waffle iron. Works perfect and was so great and extra great with my sister in laws jam of blackberries and raspberries, my favourite.

Getting closer to Cape Verde, we change or sail setting. It was different to have to genua set at the same side.They didn’t always stay tight together but most of the time.

Cape Verde we made it!!! It took us 5 and a half day. We crossed the finish line on Friday 11th at 18.03 local time and as the 17th boat. We are so happy that it went so well. We was sure that we would come in in the middle. The winner boat came in after 3 1/2 day. They are not a crushing boat.

Nice to have soil under our feet. The next day we had a relaxing day and found a restaurant with a great view.

Friday the 18th the next leg starts. Crossing the Atlantic

Hugs Eva

Last day in LasPalmas

The crew have arrived and the last preparation are getting done. Chain up, reversed and painted. New bag for the chain is sewed. Sun screen sewed. Food prepaired and more things. I have also have had time for some leasure. Going on a tour on the previous volcanos. It was very interesting.Dinner with our friends and costumes party.

Now we are ready to go!!!

A mix of picture from the last days