boat life – Sailing with Saphir

Galápagos Islands Part 1 San Cristóbal

We arrived early in the morning to San Cristóbal and just before we where going to anchor the sky literally opened up. Luckily I have a really good yellow raincoat to keep me dry. After three tries we are anchored and have put up our presening to keep the rain out from the cockpit. Time for some breakfast and some sleep.

Due to the restrictions we had to stay on the boat until the boat had been cleared in and checked the hull by a diver and inside by 10 different people from different authorities for anything we are not allowed to bring with us from others countries. We was told that our frozen meat was going to be sealed but they didn’t do that although some other boats got their meat sealed Lots of paperwork. The immigration lady had left when they arrived to our boat at 17 so we will do that the next morning . Now we are good to go a shore.

We can’t use our own dinghy due to all the sea lions so we have to rely on taxi boats. There are sea lions all over this city mostly of course on the rocks and beaches but some of them also goes up in to the town. There was also a few lizards in town and we was told that it is their breeding season so they come up and lay there eggs on land.

We went diving around the kicker rock . It was great. We saw lots of hamar sharks, black tip sharks, some turtles, one mantra and lots of other small fishes. Need to get a book to know little more about all these fishes we see.

Every evening there was happy hour at the hotel where the Arc crew was stationed and most of us went there to meet up before dinner. Lots off different restaurants here to choose from so no eating in the boat for us. I am happy since I get a lot of fish to eat. Haven’t been much of that in the boat. No luck in fishing . We take taxi boat in and out and also when we fill up the diesel they come out with it in a boat

The Arc had a half day trip booked for us to see part of the island. We went to a turtle nursery? The land turtles was getting less due to humans. Know the amount is growing again and the inhabitants are involved in keeping the turtles safe.

We also went to a very lovely beach on the other side of the island. There was some sea lions around the rocks sleeping and if we would have stayed until five we might have seen sharks. Lots of salamanders also and this one was not afraid he just looked at me. There was this little creature p

Next stop was a crater filled with water and a fantastic view. It was very high up, many steps and so wort it. Sadly Edgars knee was not good so he missed it.

Walking around in SanCristobal you see a lot off different houses and styles. Some are still under construction and at the same time the finished part is already rented out and opened up businesses in and living in.

The last evening on San Cristóbal Christian on Hoka hey organised a dinner for al of us at The Pier. Almost everyone came so at the end we where around 70 people. We had a great evening with all our friends.

When it rains it rains heavy so it makes sense to have the big drains system in the streets. Can’t have inlay without a sun set or two

Hugs Eva

Crossing the Equator and getting to Galapagos

Tjohoo we have wind and depth , lets hope it will work all the way. (It did for a while) Now we are ready to sail to Galapagos and cross the equator along the way! Even the birds are ready for our start.

It is quite exiting and fun to have this start together with the fleet. The first day we can see more or less the hole fleet on the Ais but next day less and less. Good we have SSB radio call twice per day and gets reports every morning from the Rallycontrol so we know where all are and that they are fine.

We pass our friend Jörgen and Louise on their boat Sara of Sweden. This time our boat was faster… maybe because we had new paint or?? The wind is really good and also the current so we sail between 9-10.5 kn for 2 days. It is a bit rolling but not to bad. Following days I watch the sunrise during my watch and some are better then others. Sunset is also very nice and can be a bit fun when a ship comes along.

Then the wind dies out and the Wales on the sea. Now I know why we call it Stilla havet and not Pacific Ocean. It is totally calm no winds no waves. It is actually fantastic to see this big ocean so calm it makes me want to take swim. First day was a bit scary I held on to the boat. Next day I dared to swim a bit and the third I went around the boat and cleaned it. Sorry no pictures proof since my dear husband kept an eye on me and didn’t take any pictures. Might be coming some later on the next leg.

Now there is not much to do so we relax enjoy the calm sea, trying to fish but no luck, looking if we can spot any dolphins,wales or some life. The one we see is this small fly fishes and birds near us. We did spot some dolphins but they came briefly and might spotted wales on far distance. We heard from an other boat that they had around 50 dolphins coming towards them and some of them past them very close. One morning I had company by a bird who slept on our spinnaker boom. Tried his wings when the sun came up but decided to stay a little longer on the boom. A bit cold in the morning hours so the bandanna kept my ears warm. Once in a while we spot our friends on the plotter even if we can’t see them with our own eyes.

We starting to get close to the equator so it is time to prepare us and celebrate that we have crossed it by our own boat. There is a photo competition in the WARC fleet who takes the best photo so we thought we also will contribute to that.

We heard on the radio that many of the boats have had problems with birds pooing on their boat. We have been okay until the last night before we getting to Galapagos….. the boat was covered in bird poos. I do understand why ,since they where flying around us during night for many hours trying to find a place to sit on the boat and get some fly fishes that flies in front of the aft when we come sailing.

We see land and can also smell the soil or what it is. Lots of turtles are swimming around but they are very shy and dives as soon as they hear us coming to close. After five day’s on the sea it is nice to be anchored and see some of the other fleet boats. We came in as the sixth boat so it is quite empty here so far. Guess that most of the fleet will be here before sunset. There is a reason why we should not use our dinghies… lots of sea lions here trying to get on your dinghy or your boat if you haven’t blocked the bath jetty on the stern of the boat.

There is something in the water .. might be a manta ray that is relaxing

Now we have until the 28 February to enjoy three island here in Galapagos before we leave for Marquesas on the 1 of March.

Still loves to have comments . Hugs Eva

SanBlas a place in paradis.

We had few lovely days in this paradise before we left for Shelterbay to lift the boat. This is paradis, wish we could stay for more days. Easy relaxing life at SanBlas anchoring and just jump in to the water, walk around the island, meeting our sailing friends, grill party , snorkelling ,paddling (getting better). Lots of pictures for you to enjoy.

Last dip in Caribbean for this time. Next time it will be in the Pacific. Lots of boats near the entrens to the canal. Up again with the boat to get it painted before we leave for Galapagos.

Hugs Eva

Days in Santa Marta

Now we have almost a week to explore this interesting city and country. Of course there is things to fix on the boat and the usual cleaning washing finding food store ect but in between we enjoy the city. Very nice to be in a city that we feel we can move around without feeling uncomfortable . We went on a guide tour to see the place where the founder of Colombia Simon Bolivar stayed his last days. Today it is a museum and also an art gallery. Next stop was the history museum which was even more interesting. Specially the textil part. I did get a bag or two…

Walking around in the city and checking out some nice restaurants to try later. Then of course grocery shopping and getting help from the store get everything back to the boat. Welcome party out on the pier. Dinner out at the best Mexican food we have had. Strolling around in the Santa Marta and enjoying the night pulse.

Went to a school that are working to help children that have been abuse in different ways. In Colombia it is still very tough even if many have got it better. Worst is for those that are living outside the cities. It was very nice to hear about their work and progress in helping children with their education. Lots of focus was on using your hand and mind true art and craft to help the children. We all had a lovely meeting and I will treasure it in my heart forever.

Last days our friends arrive with their new boat Sara of Sweden. We are very happy to see them and that they are going to sail with us around the world. They lost their mast crossing the Atlantic and couldn’t get a new mast in time so they ended up buying a new boat. Week continues with schippers briefing getting to know things around next leg and also a bit about Galapagos even if that is not our next stop. There are some food that we are not allowed to have on the boat when we arrive to Galapagos.Good to know when we start provisiones for going there, which is when we get to Shelter Bay and in Panama. We don’t want to have food we need to throw over board. The last night before we start our sailing to San Blas we have a dinner and prize giving award for StLucia to Santa Marta. As I wrote on the previous blogg we came in as nr 5 off all the boats so maybe we get something! And we did we was the winner in our sailing class!! Felt nice even if we are not competing… Next morning we have the start to San Blas and part of our instrument are dead… Can’t see wind speed or direction more the depth in the water. Imported when we are sailing around in all the small islands. The most sad thing is that our auto pilot connected to raymarin is not working. Luckily the second is working. Always something to fix on boats. Edgar couldn’t solve it now so he will try in Shelter Bay. Now of to Sun Blas

Hugs Eva

St Lucia preparing for next leg

Back in St Lucia I started to make sun screens for the sides of the boat which is very much needed. They also helps prevent the rain to come in to the cockpit. Not totally when it pours down then we need a tarpaulin. Which we bought here in StLucia and it was needed for a few days to keep the cockpit dry.

St Lucia Marina is very cosy with lots of restaurants, cafe, different shops even a small swimming pool. It is very easy and relaxing to see and talk sailors. The kids runs a round to each other boats and in the Marina. There is 11 kids divided on 5 boats that will be sailing around the world with their parents. You meet so many nice people and get new friends along the way. We had a few nice evenings with Michael, Helena and Martin.

Before we are going sailing our 815NM there is some preparation to do like cleaning the boat, washing clothes, food shopping and preparing some dinners. You are not that keen on going down in the boat the first day and do cooking when the boat rolls in the rough sea. Then being part of ARC you have different meeting with good information about the sailing, weather, place we are going to and then the evening events to meet the others sailors. The ARC also organised excursions. I went on one taking Alex,Inez and Elinor with me while their parents needed to work on their boat. It was very fun going on zip lines in the jungle. All in all we where 3 mums, 2 young adults and 11 kids.

We also got help from Jörgen and Mats to put up the second genua. First they had to take down the one that was up so both could go up together. Down is one thing but getting both up if it is blowing is not easy but the guys did it. So now we can sail wing by wing again.

Mats also went up on our mast to check that everything was okay. He taped the antenna since the screws didn’t sit very well. Thank you Mats for the help.

Now we are ready to sail away to Colombia and Santa Marta.

Here comes the planed route for our sailing. The world Arc continues after Fiji but we jump of there and spend some weeks there extra before we sail down to New Zealand

Hugs Eva

Fixing Saphir and New Year

The sailing up was a bit rough with big waves, wrong wind and some rain. It took us little longer than we expected so we came to late to get in to the Marina so we had to anchor out in the bay. That was quit okay and specially when we got this lovely sunset.

At eight a’clock we contacted the Marina and went in to get our boat lifted. Entering the Marina you wondered a bit where are we going with all these shabby houses. They do need a lot of attention and love.

Before they would lift our boat Edgar had to go and declare us in . After that they lifted up the boat. The turner made us a new mount for our anode and at the same time we got the boat clean and the propeller needed that really much. Now we will sail little faster.

We spend a few days in the Marina enjoying the easy life and happy that our boat is whole again for now.

New Year is coming up and we decide to sail down to Marigot bay to spend New Years even with our friends on Maty1 and Northstar. A very short sailing and we are in this magical place. Very lovely bay but very pricey as well. We had a great evening with our friends even if there was some issues with the restaurant that at the end got solved

Happy New year to our family and friends around the world!🎉

Hugs Eva

My Birthday

I had a great birthday. Started with a dip in the sea and at 11 we sailed to Mayreau to stay there on a bouy for the night. Sofia, Fredrik and Peter join us to celebrate my birthday at Mayreau beach club & villa. Had a fantastic day with lunch, hanging at the pool and dinner in the evening. Thank you Edgar for a great day spoiling me. Love you

Tobago Cays

Next morning we just went around the corner from Mayreau to Tabago Cays. This is a very popular place to snorkel and see a lovely sea life like turtles, rays and lots off fishes. Marie even saw a small shark out on the reef. Every morning I saw turtles coming swimming in to the reefs. First I saw a dark spot on the water and then a little head bright head.

We spent a few days here snorkelling, swimming, hanging with sailing friends and having a lobster dinner with them.

We said bye for now to Northstar that is going to pick up there daughter in St Lucia. After few rolling days in Tobago Cays we decided to join Mary to Sandy lane Marina in the south of Canouan. This is a very luxurious Marina. The facility is fantastic and the pool by the beach. You don’t think you are in Caribbean. Best is that the boat is still and we can have a calm night with air conditioning on. We are very happy that our friends on Zelda has arrived to St Lucia. It took them 25 days. It was a tough sailing with little wind. Well done

We heard from others that there was a nice bay on the east side of Union. We decided to meet up with Zelda there. When we arrived Elvira and BlueSunshine was there. Two off our sailing companions . Took a walk over to A to try a place that Mikael and Marianne was recommended by other sailers. A very colourful little restaurant and good food. Nice houses and views along the walk.

Finally we are in a calm bay so the stand up paddle board could be blown up and be used. It felt very shaky paddling but will be better I hope. Even if Lucia is passed I wanted to make more Lussebullar. This isn’t easy without saffron. I have tried to find it but with no luck until Mikael said he had some and was willing to give me some if I gave him Lussebullar in return. Can’t say no to that offer. Ended up having a lovely evening on our boat with the hole family from BlueSunshine and Elvira while the Lussebullar was made.

Next day Zelda arrived. So nice to see Sofia and Fredrik again. Haven’t seen them since we left Las Palmas in nov. We also got to meet Fredriks brother Peter that sailed with them across the Atlantic.

Hugs Eva

A week in Cape Verde

First day after a long sail is nice to relax and you really need it to. After that it is time for maintenance on the boat, from filling oil, get off all salt from deck,taking down sail which was a challange due to the wind. We went up 6.00 one morning to manage before it started to blow again.

There is also time for some adventure, like a tour on the Iland together with other Arc sailers. We went up to the top off the highest point and had a fantastic view. The sand is coming from Africa with the wind. This we even saw one day. You think it is foggy until you realise it is brownish It is very dry on this Iland so not much agriculture here. Had to put my feet in the water ofcurse and the guys was happy for all the stops to stretch there legs and relax from the bumpy road.

Arc have had a welcoming gattering with local music and dancing. We also had a price aword i n the first leg. We didnt get to the podium but we came in as nr 9 wich we are very please with since we thought we would come in in the middle.

I even had time for a run and walks around to explorer the city.

Now it is time to leave Cape Verde and head to Grenada . Will not miss the rocky and windy harbour but the nice view. bye bye Cape Verde.

Hugs Eva

Las Palmas to Cape Verde

Sunday 6 nov around 12.30 all boat’s in ArcPlus where outside the harbour and ready to start the sailing down to Cape Verde. We are 93 botas all in all, one motorborren and 21 catamaran. At 13.00 a clock the start went for us in one hull. The catamarans had started before us.

No wind in the beginning so we decided to go for motor the first two hours. This help us get out to the wind and gave us a great start together with our sail setting , great wind for 24 hours. Let’s see what it will cost us at the end. Due to the wind we decided to use both our genua and sail wing by wing. It was a good strategy. Bit hard in between to go up high in the wind.

The first night we had great wind and lovely sky. Not many boats out there that we could spot with our eyes but we saw a light out there. Next morning we got a short company of some dolphins

After a while we find new places to relax in

On Wednesday the Swedish boat Alexandra caught up on us and passed us very fast. They have a much faster sailing boat than us.

Lovely sunset and sunrises . Some knitting have been done also. Hopefully it will be more. Can’t get enough of the view here on the sea.. trying to catch it but it is not easy.

Lots of flying fishes. It is so great to see them flying. They fly very long and bounce on the waves. Not much more action on the sea a bird or two and we had pancakes mix in the waffle iron. Works perfect and was so great and extra great with my sister in laws jam of blackberries and raspberries, my favourite.

Getting closer to Cape Verde, we change or sail setting. It was different to have to genua set at the same side.They didn’t always stay tight together but most of the time.

Cape Verde we made it!!! It took us 5 and a half day. We crossed the finish line on Friday 11th at 18.03 local time and as the 17th boat. We are so happy that it went so well. We was sure that we would come in in the middle. The winner boat came in after 3 1/2 day. They are not a crushing boat.