Sailing with Saphir

Utvalda

Papeete Stockholm Papeete

We saw Tahiti for a few hours and enjoyed the view. Around lunchtime we arrived to Papeete and moored at Tahina Marina. On the way in we saw many nice houses

Edgar and Chris went to clean out all the salt that had come in to the engine room and and some other fixing. I took out the sewing machine and fixed the sunscreen for the front off the deck.

It is a nice to be in harbour for once. Just walk of the boat and you have land under your feet without going in to a dinghy which can be very hard and scary sometimes when it is lots of waves. This harbour had a lots of swells due to the current so we have to make sure we are well moored. Don’t want to bump in to any other boats or the pier.

We have the mechanic man on board. Feel sorry for him in this heat to be in the engine room. He takes out the part that is broken and comes back later in the afternoon to put it back and make sure it is fixed.

In the harbour is a nice restaurant that we went for dinner almost every night and to meet other sailers from the World Arc. We had dinner with Chris and Claus the last evening before Chris goes home to England. It was very nice to meet Claus again. He is also going home to Germany and have no plans of coming back to sail with Thetis as Chris have. We will see him again soon together with his wife Anne. Totally forgot to take pictures

The boat is organised and cleaned on the inside. Ready for our guest and to start our next sailing. First we have to go home to Sweden for the funeral of my dear mother-in-law. While we are away we have help to polish all our stainless steel. It do get rusty of all this saltwater. Not a fun job so happy someone else is doing it for us.

Even though the reason to go home was very sad we did have some lovely days with our family in the middle of the sadness.

On the way back to the boat we had 23h in San Fransisco. We took a cab in to have dinner at The Waterfront restaurantm. It was very good food and we had a great time.

At the Marina our friend Eva was waiting for us. She arrived the day before us and spent the night on the boat by her self. It was a bit challenging to find the boat dark and not much light and on top off that the taxi driver left her at the opposite side off the Marina. Then trying to get onboard when the boat is rolling due to extra high swells that came in. Good that she is use to be on a boat. The next day we tried to do some shopping in the big supermarket but it was closed luckily the other small was open so we could get a few things and best off it was that they had eggs.. this egg hunt and I guess it will continue. There is a lot off hens around on the island but they are wild and almost all eggs comes from New Zealand.

After the shopping it was time to explore the island a bit and we saw that it should be a beach not that far away. Our bikes came out and me and Eva went for a bike ride to find the beach. We did find one and had a nice swim although the current was really strong so we didn’t go out far.

Our friends came and collected all the things we brought from Sweden to them. It ended up with five bags in total from Sweden. Eva took one for us. Two Starlinks and that is two bags, one is for us and some other nice things from home. Now we will have easier internet when we are on the boat. Still need to have a sim card to the phone when we go ashore. The last evening we had some drinks with the crew from Misty and Amanzi before we had our dinner.

After breakfast on the 2 of May we got the Marina guys coming over to g help us with all the mooring lines and we are off to the neighbour Island Moorea. It will be a very short trip over. Only 4 hours.

Moorea her we come. We can see the island from the harbour so it is not far but we will anchor on the other side off the island.

Hugs Eva

Utvalda

Fakarava

The rain stopped and we decide to drive in to land and see if there was any shop opened even if it was Easter Day. We found one shop that was opened until 12.00. Unfortunately they did not have eggs but we got some bread (pain rich) and cheese.

Even if our Easter lunch didn’t have eggs we still had three different hearings, gravad lax, Swedish knäckebread, potatoes and snaps. The hearing and knäckebröd have traveled with us all the way from Sweden.

Me ,Chris and Rebecca went diving at the north entrance. It was two fantastic dives. I saw an octopus for the first time and a leaf fish. Would have missed them if it wasn’t for our dive master. The octopus melted in on the coral and the leaf fish really looked like a leaf moving in the water. There was a lot of other different fishes as well, many reef sharks and two mantras. I have seen mantras from land but never when I have dived. It was a WOW moment. The Mantras was huge, majestic, quirios and scared me when one of them came very close up to me. I was told from Chris and Rebecca that I had a two meter reef shark swimming next to me when I was concentrating on the mantra. I am very happy I didn’t see that. Don’t know what I would have done

Me and Edgar have bikes onboard so we decided to make a biking tour together with Chris and Rebecca. They rented bikes from the lady just next to the harbour. First we had a stop at dfhgh to have lunch with Alex and Andy. This was a very nice place . Love the bottles in the tree. Must be really nice in the evening when the lights is on.I will try that when I get home.

Edgar’s knee was hurting from the bike ride so he went back to the boat and me,Chris and Rebecca continued. We wanted to go to the coconut oil fabric but first we had a stop at Hinano Pearls where we bought a few pearls and jewellery. If we knew what we would learn on the trip we would have bought more from them. Price went up and not always so very nice pearls either.

The snorkling is fantastic. Not far from the boat is a coral head that I went with my supboard to explore. Although we could also just sit on the boat and enjoy all the fishes swimming around our boat. There was this strange sucker fishes that normally sticks to the sharks body and feeds off it. We found them on our boat hopefully we get our boat cleaned.

We had some very nice days on Fakarava and would have loved to explore more atolls but it is time to hoist the anchor and sail to Tahiti. Strong current on the way out but nothing that the capten could handel. Saw some windsurfers on the outside of the atoll enjoying the good wind .

When we have the engine on we know that we have to pump out some water that comes in due to a broken seal in the water pump. But pumping enough to cool down the engine. Edgar have already booked maintenance for that in Papeete in Tahiti. Chris went in to the engine room to check our water leak. He saw water on the port side. Which we have not seen before. Why didn’t that water go in to the bilge? Some where is a stop in the draining holes. We ended up emptying the sofa again and found the stop. It is good to have long thin bendable things for these things. The water ran out of the engine room and in to the bilge. Problem solved and now everything needs to go back so we can move around in the boat.

The rest of the sailing to Papeete was okey. Can’t complain about the sunset or the sunrise. Just after lunch we are moored at Taina Marina on Tahiti.

Hard to catch all the stars in the sky. They are there I promise.

Soon in Tahiti

Hugs Eva

Utvalda

Makemo island

It was a bit rolling night sail so we all sleepy little less then we hoped for. There was one that slept well on our boat. Luckily the bird found a nice spot that didn’t involved any cleaning up afterwards. Arriving to Makemo early morning and enjoying the sunrise.

Getting in to the opening of the atoll is always interesting with the current. Wait for it look what showed up when I was filming

We drop anchore at 6.30 , had some breakfast and then we all went to have a few hours sleep.

When we woke up VoyagerII was here.We got a ride in with Andrew to see if we could get some eggs and fresh vegetables. Unfortunately the shop was closed until 3 so no luck. Easter and no eggs… not good but what to do. We do have hearing with us and snaps.

We decide to join VogagerII to go towards the north entrens and stay there for the night. It was little longer than we thought and hard to see the coral heads when you have the sun front of you .

In the morning me and Chris went snorkling just in front of the boat. It was very nice with lovely colours of the corals and lots of fishes. By lunchtime we needed to leave to get the best passage out considering current and the tide . We had to stand and watch out for the coral heads again since they are not marked on the charts. Edgar us getting professional taking the boat in and out of the atolls with the current and tide.

Small ref shark visiting us before we leave

The night is very ruff and we tried to avoid the squalls we saw on the radar.

Entering Fakarava the Sea is very ruff and lots of current . It needs full concentration of the captain.

Getting in to the atoll and it is calm again but bit rainy.

Hugs Eva

Utvalda

Tuamotos island Raroia

We arrived just after lunch and was the only boat anchored outside the village . After a while two more boats arrived but none from the ARC. The afternoon we spent cleaning the boat and just relaxing on the boat. This must be the most magical sunset I have seen so far. The water was so calm and shinning as a mirror and the colours changed during the sunset.

The next day we went in to explore the island and also to see if we could get some grocery and find a restaurant. After been guided in different directions a nice teenager took us to the shop. There was not much fresh fruit and vegetables but we got some potatoes for our herring on Easter and some new fishing gears. Let see if we get some fish.

Looking at you shadow you realise how high the sun is since the shadow is very short. Most off the houses take advantage off the sun and have solar panels we also saw it on top of the street lights. Can you see what’s hiding behind the palm. Lots of them running around free on the island

In the evening we had dinner with Alex and Rebecca from CasiqueV and all 4 from Hoka Hey. There was no restaurant on the Island but the grocery store owners wife invited us to her house where she made dinner for all of us. We had a lovely meal and a great evening. No photos taken accept on the two paintings that her daughter had made

The day after we went across the bay to see if we could do some snorkelling and maybe find the place where Thor Heyerdahl stranded with Kontiki. It was a bit tricky to cross over the atoll due to all the pearl farms bouys that we had to watch out for. We found a nice spot and I pumped up my sup board.

I paddled in to land and the guys took the dinghy. We took a walk along the shore and saw lots of eremites crabs and really huge ones and some very tiny . Look closely to the video and you will se the tiny seashells moving..

An other lovely sunset and a moon rise and once I can take a picture of the moon. It is very bright and give us good light in the night. Which is extra nice when we are night sailing and have this extra light.

Next morning an others snorkelling tour at the beach and this time I brought my go pro so I can take photos and film under the water

Next Island is longer than a day sail so we decided to leave in the afternoon to arrive early in the morning..So after our snorkling and a lunch we hoist the anchor. Just before that we get some small lemon sharks visiting us since Edgar gave them som leftovers. On the way out we meet Amanzi.

The opening is tricky but gladly we can follow our old track coming in and we are safe.

On the outside the dolphins are waiting for us and joins for bit. It is the same dolphins that greeted us when we arrived. Or at least one of them since it had a big spot behind the eye

Hope you enjoyed the reading and the pictures. Hugs Eva

Utvalda

Leaving Marquesaöarna and sailing to Tuamotuöarna

After a bit hassle with the Esta application we finally got it to work and could get back to the boat and hoist the anchor at 11 a clock. Some of our Arc boats went out at the same time but just to go to an other bay on the island. We was the only one sailing to Tuamotos.

We had a good sailing. Doing 7 knots with the spinnaker up. I am so glad that we have Chris onboard. Specially now when I still have so much pain in my tailbone. It is hard to find a way to sit with no pressure on it, stand up can also be painful and even turning in bed is. Hope it will be better in a few days.

Just befor dinner time Chris says look there are dolphins here. This time they stayed around the boat for 30 minutes. We do think it was around 50 of them. It was so great to have them around the boat and I did get a good video when one of the jumped. What a great ending of our first sailing day. Next thing will be to catch a fish. The fishing stick and New is fixed after some shopping in Nuku Hiva .

We took three hours shift from 19.00 to 07.00. That means that one have to do 2 shifts one night. I took the first one and hope that we will be there before the forth night. It was a lovely night filled with lots of stars and the moon shining bright. So this time I was awake during sun set and sunrise. I do enjoy them very much

I had Edgar laying up in the cockpit on the first shift since he was not feeling good. First he tought he was getting seasick and then his stomach started to ache. Don’t know if he had gotten some bad food or what. Once again happy that it is not only me and Edgar on the boat.

Day two and we still have the spinnaker up and doing 7 kn. Since it is quit calm I decided to fill the freezer with some cinnamon buns and bread. Maybe not the best idea to bake in this heat but it is worth it afterwards.

The wind changed so Edgar and Chris went up and change the sail and took out the spinnaker boom on the starboard side. According to the weather institute we was not going to have much wind

My night was was between 01.00-04.00. It was a good sailing but we was going a bit to much north. In the morning the guys took of the bom and we could take the right course straight to Raroia. Now we only have 30 hours to be there in time so we could get in to the reef due to sight and current. So far so good. Keeping a speed between 6.5-7,2. The fishing gear is in the water and after an hour we see a lot of birds flying around and some fish jumping and it took 15 min and we hear bang. Our fishing line went of. Good that we bought two new tassels. Chris made a new ending so let’s see if we can catch a fish….

The ocean is big and we don’t see any ships often but suddenly there is one huge container ship coming in to our plotter and it is quite close but has a speed almost triple ours so we could follow our run line and not need to change course.

The weather forecast was right this time the wind dropped around 15.00 so we had to put on the engine to be able to keep our timetable. Now the watch is easier so the guys plays backgammon on the iPad.

The fishing went not well. We did get one on the hook but the line went of. No it is time to get a new roll and line that is much stronger so we can get some fish.

We arrive just after lunch early to Raroia and greets bye dolphins on the way in. It was a bit tricky but the captain did a great job. We anchored just outside the village and it was only us here so far.

Hugs Eva

Utvalda

Marquesses Island Nuku Hiva

In the morning we left Oa Pua to go to Nuku Hiva where we there will be the gathering with dinner and price giving award for leg 4 from Galapagos to Hiva Ou. It is a short sailing and we arrived around lunchtimme and decided to fill up the diesel. We had to wait for a while since there was two boat before us. It was a new way of docking to fill up. We had to drop the anchor revers back and through a line to land. It was a bit tricky but we managed it between the three of us.

We missed the welcoming gathering during the day since it took a while to fill up . In the evening we went up for the dinner, prize giving award and performances organised by the World Arc. First the locals danced for us and after that it was time for the men and then the ladies. We had a nice evening and was the one that had the closest answer on the total width of all boats.

A day to do some maintenance and shopping was on the schedule. I went for the shopping and took the opportunity to look around the village and to use our gift card we recived from the prize award. Lovely view around the village. In the evening we went over to Cepa to say bye to Ebo that is going home to Germany. We where many people from the boats around so when we wanted to go in the dinghy it was little hard to clime over to our dinghy.

In the morning we had a rain shower and after that a lovely rainbow appeared. We had planned to leave the day before in the afternoon to Tuamotos island but we had to stay one more night to make some paperwork in the morning with the gendarmeri since Chris need to be registrated on our boat . Best was that we then also had time to apply for our Esta since we fly via USA when we fly home. It took a while to fix that. When it was done we took up the anchor and started our three nights sailing.

Hugs Eva

Utvalda

Marquesa island Tuahana and OaPua

Time to move on but first settled in our new crew member Chris how will join us all the way to Papeete . He and his lovely wife Anne together with Clause helped us true the Panama Canal. We had a great time on the boat all of us on the trip so looking forward to have Chris whit us to Tahiti

Our first stop was at Tahuata wich was only a few hours sailing from Hiva Oa. We anchored outside the village Vaitahu. Here was only two boats anchored when we arrived and none from ARC. This looked to be a very calm bay no rolling during day and night. Finally we hopefully will sleep a hole night without waking up due to that we roll around in our bed. It is hard to describe but this rolling don’t let your body rest totally. The body is always moving you try to build up pillows next to you or find a position that keeps you as still as possible. On top off that it is very warm so when I wake up I feel like a bulldozer have driven over me. After a swim in the Sea it fels better. I do can see a point of having a hammock to sleep in on a boat. Just berfore sunset came Cacciqui V in and anchored. We had them all over for a sun downer.

The day af we all went in to the water and continued to clean the hull. It took a wile and there was some kind of burning things in the water so I couldn’t stay in. Edgar and Chris finished the cleaning. After that we went in to town to have a look. Due to Edgars knee he didn’t want join on the walk around so he found a place in the shadow while me an Chris took a walk. We had a great walk and tried to find a sim card to Chris but no luck with that. It is fantastic here grows a lot of fruit wild like bananas, mangos, lemons and some that I don’t know what it is. In the Center of the city is the church located. A very beautiful building and so is the inside. Love the woodwork on the side door .

When we came back we found Edgar at one of the restaurant together with CassiqueV and Lonestare. We had a really nice lunch and top off that we got some live music as well. After that we went back to the boat to snorkel a bit. Not that much to see and sadly the water was not that clear as it looked at the dinghy dock. Clumsy me manage to sit done on the handle hit my tailbome very bad when I was going to put on my find to go snorkel. The pain was not that bad so I went snorkelling. Let see how it will go with that. It do hurt to sit if I get pressure on the tailbone.

In the afternoon we went back in to town to learn how to play petanque. Which is variant of boule game. This is a very popular game here.It didn’t go that well but it was fun.

Since we wanted to visit at least one more island we decided to night sail up to Oa Pou. First a quick stop in the next bay to watch the sunset from the beach and have dinner. We ended not going in to the beach since we didn’t trust the anchor.

After dinner we hoist the sails and together with lots of other boats we headed to Oa Poa. The wind was really good in the beginning but around midnight it was more or less gone and we only made 2 knots so the engine was on again for a while until we got some wind again.

The scenery is fantastic when we get closer to Oa Pou. These Volcano Marquesas island are astounding.

Once again we greeted by dolphins just outside the harbour

Here was quite few more boat anchored than last place, but we found a place behind the wave breaker. We have breakfast and then Edgar drives me and Chris to land. Edgar will stay in the boat while me and Chris explore the island together with Alex, Rebecca,Andy,Andy and Mario from CassiqueV. First we got Chris his SIM card and refill for us. We checked out the handicraft market. Many nice things and some quit expensive. They do know how to charge there things which is good .

A car is rented so Alex drives us around the island. First visit is the chocolate man and the next the waterfall. After an hour drive we are in the village where the chocolate man and waterfall is or both are a bit outside the village. Very please that we got a car and did not walk all the way which was a discussion first. We starts to walk but realice it is quite far away still and up the hills in the heat. Alex went back to get the car and the rest of us decides to walk slowly upwards. On the way up I found a mango three that is named Eva. No mangos to taste though. When Alex arrives the car is already quit full with the family from the boat Pachamama. So nice to see them. We all drives up to the chocolate man and looks at his place. Unfortunately he didn’t show us his working place but all of us bought some chocolate from him.

After that me, Chris and Rebecca walked the 2 km to the waterfall. Wow what a place. So fantastic and clear fresh water and very beautiful.

One of the Andy’s wanted to do a hike up the mountain so the rest of us took a drive down to the village and the harbour where Pachamama was anchored. On the way down we picked up The family on BlueSunshine that also was in the same bay as Pachamama. After that we continued to the next village to se if we could get something to eat and drink. After some help we found the store which was in small shelter on the owners ground. She invited us to have our drinks on her veranda. Once again we got music played for us.

On the way back we got some really heavy rain and we got soaking wet. But after rains come sunshine. We past the airport and the landing strip is seated in a valley . Just next to the sea.

Almost back we see that our boats is still laying safe in the bay. In the harbour there is a modern Tika that is a fishing man. Looks like he is very proude fisherman.

Hugs to all that read my blogg. So glad to get some feedback from you😘

Eva

Utvalda

Marquesas island Hiva-Oa

Wow what a view to wake up to. These volcano island has a fantastic scenery. More or less half of the fleet had already arrived and a few of them also left for the next island. The anchoring area is not that big and there are a few others boats as well here that is not part of the Arc. Our gathering after crossing the Pacific is first on the 29 in Nuku Hiva. Here on Hiva-Oa we have to register us in to the country before we can sail around on the others islands.

We plan to stay here for 4 nights to relax, clean the boat, a bit sightseeing fill up with some fresh groceries (which was not easy to get) . The next morning we start with the registration that takes the hole day divided up in a morning meeting and an afternoon meeting in town, where we managed to get SIM card so we can communicate with the rest of the world. I am so looking forward to Starlink. Then we will at least have internet all the time on the boat. Will still continue to buy a sim card I guess when we are arrive in different countries so we can have internet access on land when we are on excursions. In the harbour we saw Paladin the boat that rescued our friend on Cepa and took him to hospital in Nuku Hiva. The harbour have a shower but don’t think we will use it.

The hull was very dirty and full with soft creatures don’t know what they are called, also lots of barnacles and this green thin grass . The hull really needed to be cleaned. I started to do a bit but it took so long time since it really was stuck on the boat.

After that work we spent the next day up at the lodge having lunch with Clare and Mark from Amanzi and enjoying time by the pool. In the evening we had dinner with many of our boat friends.

The day after we went on a guided tour with our fantastic guide Jon together with part of our boat friends. We had a great day driving around on the island. We saw the smiling Tika that was well hidden in the forest. After that we went to Ilpuna on the north west of the island. There was a big place (previous village)with lots off Tikas and also the biggest Tika in the world. They have built roof over the Tikas to protect them from natural erupted and not letting people touch them. This is part of a process to get them be acknowledged by unesco. After that we had a fantastic lunch before we turn back towards the harbour

First we did a stop where they make the Tikas out of wood and was showed the tools and procedure. I do regret that I didn’t buy one but they was a bit big though.

In the evening we had dinner at the lodge again with a dance performance off the inhabitants. It was a great evening and fantastic dance and music. I am so impressed by all of them working so hard in the heat. Even if the sun is gone it is still very hot.

Next morning we got very sad news from Edgars brother. Their mother had passed away. She has been getting weaker and weaker rapidly in the end of her more than 90 years life time but it’s always sad when it finally happens. We will miss here dearly and she will always be in our hearts. The next couple of days we took it slowly and made the arrangements we need to be able to fly home for the funeral and a last goodbye and thank you. Feels very good to come home at this time and hug you family for a week.

The picture is when she visited us on our boat 5 years ago

Hugs Eva

Utvalda

Crossing the Pacific Ocean

The big day is here… we are going to sail from Galapagos to Marquesas just me and Edgar on Saphir. It is 3000NM ahead of us and we are very pleased that we have the rest of the World Arc fleet around. Although we might not see so many of them on the plotter but we will speak to them twice a day on the SSB net.

We will cross some timelines during this sailing, It will be in total -3,5 hours (-9.5H UTC)when we get to Marquesas. The boat clock will follow the Galapagos time (-6Hour UTC)until we are anchored in Hiva-Oa Marquesas.

On the third night sitting and watching the sun set and taking some photos we suddenly get company by lots of dolphins. The played around our bow for 10 minutes before they move on.

The next morning the engine had to work for a few hours due to no wind and unfortunately we got water in the engine room. Edgar saw what the problem was but it is not easy to fix on sea. So we have to empty it out from time to time. To see how much that comes in we have taken of one off the hatches to the floor to see. Just have to be very careful when we go down in the boat. An other day our generator stopped working and we had to use the main engine to load our battery until Edgar had tried different things and solved it by changing an impeller.

On the 6th night Edgar woke me up since we needed to take down our gennaker due to all the squalls around us. The weather got more tens and soon we saw thunder. Suddenly we have Hoka hey near us and we kept in contact during the hole night and steered around to avoid the thunder. It felt very good to have one boat close to us during those hours. Early in the morning we could relax. The sun was getting up and cleared the sky. That morning when I took the net call Edgar slept trough it all. It can be quit noisy and lots of schhrr and shhh sounds from the radio. In the middle of this is where we sleep. We can’t sleep in our cabin due to all the rolling so we take turns on the couch which we have put an extra mattress from the bow cabin.

There will be lots of sunset and sunrises on this trip and they all look different so it is very hard to choose so here are a few and some with dolphins

12 Mars at 04.00 we have done halfway which we celebrated with a glass of bubbles the next evening. We also discovered that we had got company on the boat. A grey feted booby had sleepy on our sun panels. In the morning Edgar manage to get him of the boat so we could clean the sun panels. It was not that easy but lots off water , holding tight on to boat that is rolling we got it cleaned. Now we just needed to keep the boby away from the boat. That’s why Edgar have the stick next to him. Took us the hole day until the booby gave up.

13 Mars, still sailing with the genaker but the wind change and we switch to wing by wing. Much more comfortable sailing. Edgar decides to change the impeller on the generator since it is not working so well with the cooling system. So far so good. While the generator is on and loading our battery I take the opportunity to make a suger cake to celebrate Edgars brother Mattias on his birthday. This is for you Matti, Happy Birthday!and I will make the cake for you when I am home. I also made us pancakes for breakfast. Trying out different mixes since I am saving the eggs and flour for baking. Think I found one good that we also can use for waffles.

I believe I got some energy after that breakfast or maybe just bored since I did some clothes washing and polished some of the crome that got rostat. Can’t just sit knitting and listen to books.

After many days on sea and needed to change sails we are getting better and better in changing the different sails settings and I do feel more comfortable doing it know. It is quit heavy, hard and tricky to take down the spinnaker and then take the spinnakerboom out as a preventer for the genua and the main boom for the other genua. Our wing by wing sail.

Today we spotted five killer wales we think. Haven’t seen any dolphins or whales in five six days so this was very nice to see. No picture though but some on my knitting that I worked on.

Late in the evening on our net call there was an mayday call from a non WARC boat that had hit a whale and the boat sank. The whale actually came up under the boat and hit the rudder so it started to leak and in 20 min the boat sank. All four from the boat went in their lifeboat and had also their dinghy with them. We and several other boats change our course to help them. Around midnight we heard a cargo ship calling them and an others boat that was near them. Felt good to know that the lifeboat was spotted and an hour later we heard on the rescue sending live in VHF. The four crew went on the sailing boat RollingStone and we was told that they will sail with them to Hiva-Ou where we all are heading. With this great news we turned back to our track and head to Marquesas and Hiva-Ou.

I was never keen on doing night sailing before we started our circumnavigation adventure specially if it was only me and Edgar on the boat. Mostly I think is that our sleep is not great and sit out on the boat and watch and see nothing since it is totally black. Can’t recall that we have these night sky’s up in the north as we have now in the south. The moon is shining up so I see the ocean and the waves and on top off that all the stars and Milky Way is magical. Sadly it is hard to take photo on a rolling boat when the camera wants your to hold it still. Done my best to capture the sky and the moon. Easier is to catch the sunrise which greets you after the night watch. Changing from dark red to brighter to orange and then yellow . All these lovely colours painting the horizon together with all the clouds

The 15 Mars at 19.34 we have done 2/3 of our sailing only 1000NM left to go. Fingers crossed that we will have wind and can make around 6 -7 knots. If so we will arrive around the 22 of Mars. On the 16 of Mars at 07 we put on the engine since there is now wind to talk about. We are doing only 2,5-3,5 knots. That is not fun at all. After the morning net call the engine is of and we have wind again and doing almost 6kn. This morning we have porrige for breakfast. Edgar goes back to bed and I found that I downloaded french language on my Storytel reader. Starts listening to that for a while. Around 12 we starts to get more wind and doing 7.5-8 knots. Feels really good after this very slow night.

One afternoon it suddenly flew hundreds and hundreds of flying fishes on the ocean . I saw them near and far away from the boat and in between I saw some medium sizes fishes jumping around. Think it was tuna but not sure. I did catch the flying fish on film.

There was a new call out to the fleet that they needed help on Cepa due to one of the guys passed out and needed som help. Once again some of the boats turn there course to them and on Pec there was a doctor that came to assist and was with the sick man all the way to the hospital. Luckily there was a privet yacht nearby that came and picked them up and rooked them to Nuko Hiva. All went well and he is in good hands. We got an sms from him the day after he had arrived to the hospital that he was well and needs some more tests.

After 18 days on the sea the wind dies out and we only do 2-3 kn. So boring and so rolling. Time for the iron genua to work. The positive thing is that we get less rolling due to the speed and help with the mainsail out. I even can sleep in my one bed for a few hours. Many other of the boats also had put on their engin, but we heard from them later that they got some wind and could sail a bit again.

After 20 days and 13 hours 47 min we have crossed the finish line and can anchor to have a nice sleep in our new made bed. It was totally black since it was around 23 hours when we arrived.

Utvalda

Galápagos Islands Part 1 San Cristóbal

We arrived early in the morning to San Cristóbal and just before we where going to anchor the sky literally opened up. Luckily I have a really good yellow raincoat to keep me dry. After three tries we are anchored and have put up our presening to keep the rain out from the cockpit. Time for some breakfast and some sleep.

Due to the restrictions we had to stay on the boat until the boat had been cleared in and checked the hull by a diver and inside by 10 different people from different authorities for anything we are not allowed to bring with us from others countries. We was told that our frozen meat was going to be sealed but they didn’t do that although some other boats got their meat sealed Lots of paperwork. The immigration lady had left when they arrived to our boat at 17 so we will do that the next morning . Now we are good to go a shore.

We can’t use our own dinghy due to all the sea lions so we have to rely on taxi boats. There are sea lions all over this city mostly of course on the rocks and beaches but some of them also goes up in to the town. There was also a few lizards in town and we was told that it is their breeding season so they come up and lay there eggs on land.

We went diving around the kicker rock . It was great. We saw lots of hamar sharks, black tip sharks, some turtles, one mantra and lots of other small fishes. Need to get a book to know little more about all these fishes we see.

Every evening there was happy hour at the hotel where the Arc crew was stationed and most of us went there to meet up before dinner. Lots off different restaurants here to choose from so no eating in the boat for us. I am happy since I get a lot of fish to eat. Haven’t been much of that in the boat. No luck in fishing . We take taxi boat in and out and also when we fill up the diesel they come out with it in a boat

The Arc had a half day trip booked for us to see part of the island. We went to a turtle nursery? The land turtles was getting less due to humans. Know the amount is growing again and the inhabitants are involved in keeping the turtles safe.

We also went to a very lovely beach on the other side of the island. There was some sea lions around the rocks sleeping and if we would have stayed until five we might have seen sharks. Lots of salamanders also and this one was not afraid he just looked at me. There was this little creature p

Next stop was a crater filled with water and a fantastic view. It was very high up, many steps and so wort it. Sadly Edgars knee was not good so he missed it.

Walking around in SanCristobal you see a lot off different houses and styles. Some are still under construction and at the same time the finished part is already rented out and opened up businesses in and living in.

The last evening on San Cristóbal Christian on Hoka hey organised a dinner for al of us at The Pier. Almost everyone came so at the end we where around 70 people. We had a great evening with all our friends.

When it rains it rains heavy so it makes sense to have the big drains system in the streets. Can’t have inlay without a sun set or two

Hugs Eva

Utvalda

Galapagos part 2 visiting Isabela

We set sail just before sunset and head towards the largest island in Galapagos although it is only populated in the south East corner . Our instrument is not with us…. No wind, depth or speed again… grrr. Hope we can (Edgar) can figure out the problem soon. It is very nice to know where the wind is coming from ( yes you can see it )and the strength and also when we arrive to an anchor place it is much easier if we know the depth under us and not only rely on what the plotter/map is saying.

It was a calm night sailing or motor sailing is more correct. Not much wind after the first 2 hours so the iron genua had to work. We arrived early morning to Isabela. Lots of Arc boats was already there. After we had anchored we had some breakfast and then both of us needed some sleep. Before exploring the island.

Once again we had to rely on taxi boats since we was not allowed to use our dinghy due to our 2 stroke engine. Here there was less taxiboats and double price (2$/per person) compared to San Cristóbal. Glad we are only two of us and not 7 as on Blue Sunshine. Although they can and are using their dinghy. Luckily for us it would show a bit later in the afternoon.. We went in later in the afternoon to look around and to get something to eat. It is carneval time so it was a big celebration going on on the beach with food tent, loud music, beach volleyball game and lots of people enjoying them self. In the middle of this it started to rain and we tried to find a place to have food. Lots of places was closed and just when we found one place the phone rang. It was Annie on Maroro. Our boat had made a huge turn in the water when the wind blew up and hit the big yellow buoy. When we came back to our boat Clas from BlueSunshine was onboard and keeping her not to hit the buoy again. It was a bit caiotic as it was raining heavily also and some other boats had changed the anchor place since the drifted. We moved us far out to be safe and stayed on the boat rest of the evening and played rumikub.

This is how it looked the day after the rain in town

The next days we explored the island together with Petra, Michel and Fluer from Pippin. We saw some Flamingos, the Turtel Center where they help to bread up the turtles and but them back out to the wild when they are around five years old , we rented bikes and biked to the wall of tears. On the way out there we saw many turtles in the wild and at the wall of tears in the rain we meet a lonely turtle walking along the wall. This wall was built by prisoner during the years between 1945- 1959 for no purpose and the cost many lives.

Not as many seal lions here as in SanCristobal but much more leguans. These are the black leguans. They where everywhere hanging around or swimming .

The last evening on Isabela we had a sundowner together with Petra,Michael, Fleur and Britta,Thomas and Ann(Cepa) at the beach. Our great funny waiter taking photos . To the drinks we was served popcorn and roasted bananas. Very nice.

Hugs Eva

Utvalda

Galapagos Part3 Santa Cruz

Early morning we left Isabela and steered to Santa Cruz. Not much wind (so the iron genua had to work)and a quiet sea and sun fog? dis? We have Pippin behind us and Pec ahead of us whom we passed later. There was some small island north of Isabela and one of them looked like a turtle

Most of the times when you see land after been sailing a day or more it feels like you are not getting closer and that it take so long time to reach the harbour. It felt like that this time as well. Finally we have the anchor in the water and head in to town to meet the other from the fleet.This time our meeting point was a bar/restaurant. Really nice food . Had lunch there few times.

We was warned that it can be rolling a bit so a stern anchor cold be good to have. We didn’t do that since nobody else did. After a few nights we moved the boat and it made a ugh difference. We actually felt almost sea-sick on the boat and it was hard to anything when you was thrown around on the boat. Always needed one hand holding on when you moved on the boat as if we was sailing.. Here is a movie from one of the nights.

Edgars knees was very swollen and heart when he walks so I took a day walking around the area. It was very nice to have land under my feet and not being on this rolling boat. I ended up walking 18 215 steps. Passed some different houses, a dis market where the seals, iguanas and birds was begging for some fish. I saw this lovely arch made of mosaic. I walked in and saw the fantastic wall and the lovely chair. Time to save the broken plates,cup ect to a further project…. Here they also have a a turtle breeding( didn’t visit that one)a Charles Darwin institute, where you can read about his work on the island. I walked down to the beach that we could see from the boat. It was next to the Darwin institute. It was low tide so the lava rock was shown a lot. Had a lovely swim there later with the crew from Solana V.

On our wedding anniversary we went out for dinner only the two of us. They have the same sushi restaurant here as in San Cristóbal that we really liked. Next to the restaurant we had a live music. According to our waiter this was the most famous band on the island. It was very nice to have live music and extra great that they where really good.

We had sundowners every evening together with the rest of the fleet before going out to dinner. They organised one men /ladies evening which was very nice. For the price giving evening I help Sara of Sweden to decorate a jacket that is a honouring prices moving around the fleet. I had a sewing lesson with Alex and Inez and I finished it up with the two Swedish flag in the end

Doing the last shopping at the market, some washing. At the pier we saw lots of white tip and black tip sharks and also very small mantra. Even the sea lions was here but not that many. They did have a bigger pier for all the taxi boats here and they operated more frequently, so it was easy to go back and forward to the boat.

Time to say bye bye to Galapagos and get ready for the longest sailing for us, 3000 NM crossing the Pacific Ocean. So time to sleep.

Hugs Eva

Utvalda

Crossing the Equator and getting to Galapagos

Tjohoo we have wind and depth , lets hope it will work all the way. (It did for a while) Now we are ready to sail to Galapagos and cross the equator along the way! Even the birds are ready for our start.

It is quite exiting and fun to have this start together with the fleet. The first day we can see more or less the hole fleet on the Ais but next day less and less. Good we have SSB radio call twice per day and gets reports every morning from the Rallycontrol so we know where all are and that they are fine.

We pass our friend Jörgen and Louise on their boat Sara of Sweden. This time our boat was faster… maybe because we had new paint or?? The wind is really good and also the current so we sail between 9-10.5 kn for 2 days. It is a bit rolling but not to bad. Following days I watch the sunrise during my watch and some are better then others. Sunset is also very nice and can be a bit fun when a ship comes along.

Then the wind dies out and the Wales on the sea. Now I know why we call it Stilla havet and not Pacific Ocean. It is totally calm no winds no waves. It is actually fantastic to see this big ocean so calm it makes me want to take swim. First day was a bit scary I held on to the boat. Next day I dared to swim a bit and the third I went around the boat and cleaned it. Sorry no pictures proof since my dear husband kept an eye on me and didn’t take any pictures. Might be coming some later on the next leg.

Now there is not much to do so we relax enjoy the calm sea, trying to fish but no luck, looking if we can spot any dolphins,wales or some life. The one we see is this small fly fishes and birds near us. We did spot some dolphins but they came briefly and might spotted wales on far distance. We heard from an other boat that they had around 50 dolphins coming towards them and some of them past them very close. One morning I had company by a bird who slept on our spinnaker boom. Tried his wings when the sun came up but decided to stay a little longer on the boom. A bit cold in the morning hours so the bandanna kept my ears warm. Once in a while we spot our friends on the plotter even if we can’t see them with our own eyes.

We starting to get close to the equator so it is time to prepare us and celebrate that we have crossed it by our own boat. There is a photo competition in the WARC fleet who takes the best photo so we thought we also will contribute to that.

We heard on the radio that many of the boats have had problems with birds pooing on their boat. We have been okay until the last night before we getting to Galapagos….. the boat was covered in bird poos. I do understand why ,since they where flying around us during night for many hours trying to find a place to sit on the boat and get some fly fishes that flies in front of the aft when we come sailing.

We see land and can also smell the soil or what it is. Lots of turtles are swimming around but they are very shy and dives as soon as they hear us coming to close. After five day’s on the sea it is nice to be anchored and see some of the other fleet boats. We came in as the sixth boat so it is quite empty here so far. Guess that most of the fleet will be here before sunset. There is a reason why we should not use our dinghies… lots of sea lions here trying to get on your dinghy or your boat if you haven’t blocked the bath jetty on the stern of the boat.

There is something in the water .. might be a manta ray that is relaxing

Now we have until the 28 February to enjoy three island here in Galapagos before we leave for Marquesas on the 1 of March.

Still loves to have comments . Hugs Eva

Utvalda

Las Perlas

We topped up the boat and then started our 45NM to Las Perlas . Lovely to see the Panama skyline from the sea.

It is not much wind so we motorsail down to Las Perlas and the Island Contadora where most off the fleet is anchored and getting prepared for the sailing to Galapagos.

Due to that our 1 autopilot still isn’t working after trying different ways Edgar decide to connect the autopilot direct from the steering to the box. So now we have a cable from the sofa in our bedroom through the kitchen and up in to the autopilot connection. When we not ursine it it is easy to disconnect and let the cable hang on the inside of the boat. In the evening we had barbecue and prize giving ceremoni for the leg Santa Marta to SanBlas. Our friends on Sara of Sweden won their group and we came in third in ours. Our sailsetting is still great for us, so we keep it for a while, twSo nice to meet up everyone after some went earlier from ShelterBay and had left when we came to Panama.

The day after we had Olympic Games on the beach with most of the boats involved. It was great fun and lots off laughs and lots of ”kämpar glöd” on all parts. Thank you Louise for arranging it it was so fun.

Skippers breifing, a sundowner and then dinner at an Italian restaurant that made it a special evening for us. The chef was fantastic, he had prepared a set menu for all of us and wow this was good. If you ever go to Las Perlas and Contadora Island don’t miss Casa Tortugos. Ended up buying a Panama hat as well. In the morning I saw Louise up in the mast . Bravo lady.

Utvalda