worldwide sailing – Page 7 – Sailing with Saphir

Galápagos Islands Part 1 San Cristóbal

We arrived early in the morning to San Cristóbal and just before we where going to anchor the sky literally opened up. Luckily I have a really good yellow raincoat to keep me dry. After three tries we are anchored and have put up our presening to keep the rain out from the cockpit. Time for some breakfast and some sleep.

Due to the restrictions we had to stay on the boat until the boat had been cleared in and checked the hull by a diver and inside by 10 different people from different authorities for anything we are not allowed to bring with us from others countries. We was told that our frozen meat was going to be sealed but they didn’t do that although some other boats got their meat sealed Lots of paperwork. The immigration lady had left when they arrived to our boat at 17 so we will do that the next morning . Now we are good to go a shore.

We can’t use our own dinghy due to all the sea lions so we have to rely on taxi boats. There are sea lions all over this city mostly of course on the rocks and beaches but some of them also goes up in to the town. There was also a few lizards in town and we was told that it is their breeding season so they come up and lay there eggs on land.

We went diving around the kicker rock . It was great. We saw lots of hamar sharks, black tip sharks, some turtles, one mantra and lots of other small fishes. Need to get a book to know little more about all these fishes we see.

Every evening there was happy hour at the hotel where the Arc crew was stationed and most of us went there to meet up before dinner. Lots off different restaurants here to choose from so no eating in the boat for us. I am happy since I get a lot of fish to eat. Haven’t been much of that in the boat. No luck in fishing . We take taxi boat in and out and also when we fill up the diesel they come out with it in a boat

The Arc had a half day trip booked for us to see part of the island. We went to a turtle nursery? The land turtles was getting less due to humans. Know the amount is growing again and the inhabitants are involved in keeping the turtles safe.

We also went to a very lovely beach on the other side of the island. There was some sea lions around the rocks sleeping and if we would have stayed until five we might have seen sharks. Lots of salamanders also and this one was not afraid he just looked at me. There was this little creature p

Next stop was a crater filled with water and a fantastic view. It was very high up, many steps and so wort it. Sadly Edgars knee was not good so he missed it.

Walking around in SanCristobal you see a lot off different houses and styles. Some are still under construction and at the same time the finished part is already rented out and opened up businesses in and living in.

The last evening on San Cristóbal Christian on Hoka hey organised a dinner for al of us at The Pier. Almost everyone came so at the end we where around 70 people. We had a great evening with all our friends.

When it rains it rains heavy so it makes sense to have the big drains system in the streets. Can’t have inlay without a sun set or two

Hugs Eva

Galapagos Part3 Santa Cruz

Early morning we left Isabela and steered to Santa Cruz. Not much wind (so the iron genua had to work)and a quiet sea and sun fog? dis? We have Pippin behind us and Pec ahead of us whom we passed later. There was some small island north of Isabela and one of them looked like a turtle

Most of the times when you see land after been sailing a day or more it feels like you are not getting closer and that it take so long time to reach the harbour. It felt like that this time as well. Finally we have the anchor in the water and head in to town to meet the other from the fleet.This time our meeting point was a bar/restaurant. Really nice food . Had lunch there few times.

We was warned that it can be rolling a bit so a stern anchor cold be good to have. We didn’t do that since nobody else did. After a few nights we moved the boat and it made a ugh difference. We actually felt almost sea-sick on the boat and it was hard to anything when you was thrown around on the boat. Always needed one hand holding on when you moved on the boat as if we was sailing.. Here is a movie from one of the nights.

Edgars knees was very swollen and heart when he walks so I took a day walking around the area. It was very nice to have land under my feet and not being on this rolling boat. I ended up walking 18 215 steps. Passed some different houses, a dis market where the seals, iguanas and birds was begging for some fish. I saw this lovely arch made of mosaic. I walked in and saw the fantastic wall and the lovely chair. Time to save the broken plates,cup ect to a further project…. Here they also have a a turtle breeding( didn’t visit that one)a Charles Darwin institute, where you can read about his work on the island. I walked down to the beach that we could see from the boat. It was next to the Darwin institute. It was low tide so the lava rock was shown a lot. Had a lovely swim there later with the crew from Solana V.

On our wedding anniversary we went out for dinner only the two of us. They have the same sushi restaurant here as in San Cristóbal that we really liked. Next to the restaurant we had a live music. According to our waiter this was the most famous band on the island. It was very nice to have live music and extra great that they where really good.

We had sundowners every evening together with the rest of the fleet before going out to dinner. They organised one men /ladies evening which was very nice. For the price giving evening I help Sara of Sweden to decorate a jacket that is a honouring prices moving around the fleet. I had a sewing lesson with Alex and Inez and I finished it up with the two Swedish flag in the end

Doing the last shopping at the market, some washing. At the pier we saw lots of white tip and black tip sharks and also very small mantra. Even the sea lions was here but not that many. They did have a bigger pier for all the taxi boats here and they operated more frequently, so it was easy to go back and forward to the boat.

Time to say bye bye to Galapagos and get ready for the longest sailing for us, 3000 NM crossing the Pacific Ocean. So time to sleep.

Hugs Eva

Crossing the Equator and getting to Galapagos

Tjohoo we have wind and depth , lets hope it will work all the way. (It did for a while) Now we are ready to sail to Galapagos and cross the equator along the way! Even the birds are ready for our start.

It is quite exiting and fun to have this start together with the fleet. The first day we can see more or less the hole fleet on the Ais but next day less and less. Good we have SSB radio call twice per day and gets reports every morning from the Rallycontrol so we know where all are and that they are fine.

We pass our friend Jörgen and Louise on their boat Sara of Sweden. This time our boat was faster… maybe because we had new paint or?? The wind is really good and also the current so we sail between 9-10.5 kn for 2 days. It is a bit rolling but not to bad. Following days I watch the sunrise during my watch and some are better then others. Sunset is also very nice and can be a bit fun when a ship comes along.

Then the wind dies out and the Wales on the sea. Now I know why we call it Stilla havet and not Pacific Ocean. It is totally calm no winds no waves. It is actually fantastic to see this big ocean so calm it makes me want to take swim. First day was a bit scary I held on to the boat. Next day I dared to swim a bit and the third I went around the boat and cleaned it. Sorry no pictures proof since my dear husband kept an eye on me and didn’t take any pictures. Might be coming some later on the next leg.

Now there is not much to do so we relax enjoy the calm sea, trying to fish but no luck, looking if we can spot any dolphins,wales or some life. The one we see is this small fly fishes and birds near us. We did spot some dolphins but they came briefly and might spotted wales on far distance. We heard from an other boat that they had around 50 dolphins coming towards them and some of them past them very close. One morning I had company by a bird who slept on our spinnaker boom. Tried his wings when the sun came up but decided to stay a little longer on the boom. A bit cold in the morning hours so the bandanna kept my ears warm. Once in a while we spot our friends on the plotter even if we can’t see them with our own eyes.

We starting to get close to the equator so it is time to prepare us and celebrate that we have crossed it by our own boat. There is a photo competition in the WARC fleet who takes the best photo so we thought we also will contribute to that.

We heard on the radio that many of the boats have had problems with birds pooing on their boat. We have been okay until the last night before we getting to Galapagos….. the boat was covered in bird poos. I do understand why ,since they where flying around us during night for many hours trying to find a place to sit on the boat and get some fly fishes that flies in front of the aft when we come sailing.

We see land and can also smell the soil or what it is. Lots of turtles are swimming around but they are very shy and dives as soon as they hear us coming to close. After five day’s on the sea it is nice to be anchored and see some of the other fleet boats. We came in as the sixth boat so it is quite empty here so far. Guess that most of the fleet will be here before sunset. There is a reason why we should not use our dinghies… lots of sea lions here trying to get on your dinghy or your boat if you haven’t blocked the bath jetty on the stern of the boat.

There is something in the water .. might be a manta ray that is relaxing

Now we have until the 28 February to enjoy three island here in Galapagos before we leave for Marquesas on the 1 of March.

Still loves to have comments . Hugs Eva

Las Perlas

We topped up the boat and then started our 45NM to Las Perlas . Lovely to see the Panama skyline from the sea.

It is not much wind so we motorsail down to Las Perlas and the Island Contadora where most off the fleet is anchored and getting prepared for the sailing to Galapagos.

Due to that our 1 autopilot still isn’t working after trying different ways Edgar decide to connect the autopilot direct from the steering to the box. So now we have a cable from the sofa in our bedroom through the kitchen and up in to the autopilot connection. When we not ursine it it is easy to disconnect and let the cable hang on the inside of the boat. In the evening we had barbecue and prize giving ceremoni for the leg Santa Marta to SanBlas. Our friends on Sara of Sweden won their group and we came in third in ours. Our sailsetting is still great for us, so we keep it for a while, twSo nice to meet up everyone after some went earlier from ShelterBay and had left when we came to Panama.

The day after we had Olympic Games on the beach with most of the boats involved. It was great fun and lots off laughs and lots of ”kämpar glöd” on all parts. Thank you Louise for arranging it it was so fun.

Skippers breifing, a sundowner and then dinner at an Italian restaurant that made it a special evening for us. The chef was fantastic, he had prepared a set menu for all of us and wow this was good. If you ever go to Las Perlas and Contadora Island don’t miss Casa Tortugos. Ended up buying a Panama hat as well. In the morning I saw Louise up in the mast . Bravo lady.

Panama city

We arrive late afternoon and was greeted by Swade from ARC. First we have a drink on the deck after a great day on the Panama Canal. We say Thank you to our crew when they leave us and looking forward to have more crew onboard again.It is very nice to have company onboard from time to time. Next one that is planned is Eva that will join us from Tahiti

First some shopping again to Allbroke mall. Found me new shoes so now I can use my fine shoes as fine shoes again. In the late afternoon we take a taxi and get in to old town together with Michel, Petra and Fleur. Lots off nice renovated houses and also lots that needs some attention . A drink on the rooftop before dinner and then more drinks on the next rooftop with lots WARC(world arc) friends.

Sunday morning we went on WARC guided tour of Panamas history and visit to old town. Our guide was great and have lots of energy and pumped us with so much interesting history about Panama and the canal. One was about the big riot when the student demanded that the American school in the Canal Zone also should have the Panama Flagg outside there school and not the American. This costed many students life and today there is a memorial site in the previous canal zone.

We went up to a fantastic view point. On the way we say a sloth sleeping in the three. Up at the top we had view over the canal, American bridge, yatch harbour and Panama city.

After that we went in to old town and got to see some more nice places and the old church. On the way in we pass a not so very nice area with lots off graffiti and very sad houses. After the tour we went for lunch with the group in a new open Italian restaurant. I saw a painting on the way there that I really loved but unfortunately the shop was closed so Erika maybe you like to make your mother happy in between your knitting?

Tomorrow we will fill up with diesel and then head down to Las Perlas. Would have loved to have some more days here in Panama but it is time to move on.

Hugs Eva

Sailing from St Lucia to Santa Marta Colombia

Time to leave Caribbean and sail to Colombia. This time it is 815NM and will take approximately five days. We have put on seasick plaster to make sure we don’t get seasick. Getting out in the start line we see Infinity laying in the bay and waving to us. They crossed the Atlantic with us. Mary1 came out to cheer on us and the other boats.

The start signal went of and we was not near the starting line……we crossed the starting line last. We couldn’t have our wing by wing from start, there was little wind for our mainsail so we didn’t go that fast in the beginning.

Finally we turned and took a new course. The wing by wing sail setting with our genoas was hoisted. Slowly we are getting closer to the fleet and after a few hours we are not last anymore

We are enjoying our sailing and taking watch turns. Edgar is doing the first night ours and I take over around 02.00 until morning around 6-7. This goes on for the hole sailing and during daytime we read,knits, eats or sleeps. Some nights we have rains and we can see them coming on the radar. Bit by bit we continue to get more boats behind us. It seams like the nights gives us better winds. Boats comes and goes on the Ais. I have so lovely sun sets and sunrises during my watch and it is very hard to choose photos so here comes many. The moon is shining on us every night so it is not totally dark which makes the watch much easier.

Getting closer and we see land and we are getting in as the fifth boat in Santa Marta. So happy and pleased with our sailing. Now it will be nice to sleep a full night in our bed. This is the longest we have sail by our self.

Hugs Eva

Christmas and Edgars Birthday in Bequia

After breakfast we hoist the sail and steered towards Bequia where we will celebrate Christmas and Edgars birthday. When we arrived in to Bequia we saw our friends Mary1 how kindly help us book a buoy for us and Zelda.

The life on boat can be brutal some times and leave big marks or it can be relaxing and playing cards with Martin to end with a nice dinner at a restaurant with a lovely view.

Christmas 24 Dec we started with a sill lunch on our boat. First everyone hade to decorate our tablecloth for Christmas. In the evening we had a dinner together with other Swedish,Finnish and Norwegian boats at Upper deck. We had different but great evening.

The next days we relaxed and fixed things on the boat. Fredrik and Sofia took up our log and cleaned it. It was filled with shells and could not spin. This little thing is sitting under the boat and spins when the boat is moving forward. To get it out you pull it up from inside of the boat and put in a plug in the hole while cleaning it. That’s why they where so concentrated. Little scared of sinking the boat… but they manage it. The hull got cleaned as well and we discovered that we had lost the zink anode and the metal thing that the anode can attach to the propeller. This is not good. Edgar made a temporary solution with hanging the anode on the propeller until we go up to Rodney Bay and get it fixed hopefully. When everything was done we took the dinghy’s in to land and snorkelled . Not much see and the water was not so clear.

Edgar’s birthday we started with going on a tour together with Fredrik,Sofia and Peter. Our taxi driver was an excellent driver and guide. Ended the evening with a lovely dinner on Zelda.

The next day we went up early to head up to Rodney bay in St Lucia to fix the boat. It is a 10hours sailing and we want to get there before it gets dark.

Hugs Eva

Spending days in Grenada

After a nice full night sleep we where ready to fix things in the boat . Edgar went to declare us in. That took some hours. I was happy he was up quite early and was almost the first otherwise he might have spent queuing until after lunch since many boats had arrived during night and also needed to declare in. We went to do some grocery shopping. The food store was much better equipped then Cape Verde. Bit more expensive but that we knew. Our crew finally found tickets to fly home without needing to have to many stops on the way. They leave on Sunday afternoon so before that we needed to get the mainsail down so the rigger could have a look and hopefully fix our fueler. Just needed to wait for the winds to calm down. It was not that easy as the sail is 66m2 and the battens on the boats are standing . That means the longest is 21m long and the shortest app 3m . The sail came down and tied around the boom.

Matti went to a hotel to get better sleep. Although it didn’t roll any more. He needed to stretch out and get some better sleep maybe also a little bigger bed. The cabins beds are not the biggest one although Magnus stayed on the boat with us. The three of us went for a walk and ended up almost in the city center. We didn’t want to walk back in the heat so we decided to take the bus back to the Marina. These minibuses fit 14 plus to in the front. Only cost 2.5 Caribbean dollar wich is 10 sv kr. They let you jump on and of where you want on the route.

Our last night together we went over to the hotel where Matti stayed at and had a lovely dinner. Before that all three of us had to take a swim in the ocean. The first one since we leaft Cape Verde. Very nice hotel would have loved to stay there but maybe next time😀

We wave by to our crew who went home to their wife’s. Five weeks away and three off them on the sea where there was limited contact. The wife’s was happy to get their husbands back home. I finished my knittings to my grandchildren so Matti took them home and I know that they will get them in time for Christmas. Let’s hope they fit them also. If you get caught in the rain you get really wet.. what to do then ? Bake Lussekatter of course. Glad I brought saffron with me. It is hard to find. In this heat you don’t have much energy and all things you plan to do takes so much longer time and you need to rest in between maybe take a dip in the pool in the Marina. Which was very popular amongst many of us but guess the kid’s most. I am so glad that we got help with cleaning the hull and all our stainless steel. Vinegar in the water is the trick to get rid of the salt and after that wash the hull with boat shampoo. The boat is shining again. For now… The riggers fixed the fueler and now it is working. With help from Even, Jörn and Johnny from the Norwegian boat Lise the sail is back in the mast. Thank you guys for the help. Me and Edgar couldn’t have done it without your help. Lise and Saphir is actually roommates. Hmm you think a boat can’t have roommates but they can. In wintertime they are at the same yatch service in Henån. And now we have been sailing from Las Palmas via Cape Verde and to Grenada. The world is not that big…

The next morning we had a guided bus tour around the iland toghether with Even,Jörn and Johnny. We went to Annadale waterfall where we could jump in tomtar water but to many people and the water look so and so. Next stop was at Grand Etang national park with a lake in crater. Grand Etang Lake is a 36 acre crater lake inside an ancient volcano, one of two crater lakes in Grenadine. The lake is full with fish but you are not aloud to fish there. The guys was not that impressed. More fun was it with the monkeys. I wanted meet them. While Johnny was taking photos of me he got surprised by the others monkey that jump on him.

Time for lunch at Belmonte and see the chocolate factory. It was a very interesting guided tour where we got to know from harvesting the cocoa bean, fermenting, sorting, drying and becoming chocolate. Most of these steps are by hand only machines are used to sort out the size of the beans and getting the chocolate out of the bean. When they are drying they walk on the beans to spread them around and to give love to them as our guide said. So of course I had to try that. By the way the chocolate is really good but very expensive. Will eat it on special occasion.

The tour has one more stop. The River Antoine estate. A rom distillery that also using old tradition. Interesting to look at the procedure but didn’t feel so much for trying or drinking this rom. It is also very strong 74 % and can only be bought in Grenada. Very popular rom amongst the inhabitants. The last picture is when they are bottling the rom by hand and doing the last filtering.

Almost all boat us arrived and it is time for price ceremony. Lots of prizes for many boats. Best prize in my opinion was to Infinity that was keeping Helga company after they got problem with their rodder and was on top of that getting in water. Time to say good bye or fare winds to lots of new sailing friends, some of them we will meet along our sailing or follow on different ways. We also look forward to get out of a Marina and trough an anchor in a bay wheee we can jump in to the sea from the boat.

I still love to get feedback 🙂 Hugs Eva

A week in Cape Verde

First day after a long sail is nice to relax and you really need it to. After that it is time for maintenance on the boat, from filling oil, get off all salt from deck,taking down sail which was a challange due to the wind. We went up 6.00 one morning to manage before it started to blow again.

There is also time for some adventure, like a tour on the Iland together with other Arc sailers. We went up to the top off the highest point and had a fantastic view. The sand is coming from Africa with the wind. This we even saw one day. You think it is foggy until you realise it is brownish It is very dry on this Iland so not much agriculture here. Had to put my feet in the water ofcurse and the guys was happy for all the stops to stretch there legs and relax from the bumpy road.

Arc have had a welcoming gattering with local music and dancing. We also had a price aword i n the first leg. We didnt get to the podium but we came in as nr 9 wich we are very please with since we thought we would come in in the middle.

I even had time for a run and walks around to explorer the city.

Now it is time to leave Cape Verde and head to Grenada . Will not miss the rocky and windy harbour but the nice view. bye bye Cape Verde.

Hugs Eva

Las Palmas to Cape Verde

Sunday 6 nov around 12.30 all boat’s in ArcPlus where outside the harbour and ready to start the sailing down to Cape Verde. We are 93 botas all in all, one motorborren and 21 catamaran. At 13.00 a clock the start went for us in one hull. The catamarans had started before us.

No wind in the beginning so we decided to go for motor the first two hours. This help us get out to the wind and gave us a great start together with our sail setting , great wind for 24 hours. Let’s see what it will cost us at the end. Due to the wind we decided to use both our genua and sail wing by wing. It was a good strategy. Bit hard in between to go up high in the wind.

The first night we had great wind and lovely sky. Not many boats out there that we could spot with our eyes but we saw a light out there. Next morning we got a short company of some dolphins

After a while we find new places to relax in

On Wednesday the Swedish boat Alexandra caught up on us and passed us very fast. They have a much faster sailing boat than us.

Lovely sunset and sunrises . Some knitting have been done also. Hopefully it will be more. Can’t get enough of the view here on the sea.. trying to catch it but it is not easy.

Lots of flying fishes. It is so great to see them flying. They fly very long and bounce on the waves. Not much more action on the sea a bird or two and we had pancakes mix in the waffle iron. Works perfect and was so great and extra great with my sister in laws jam of blackberries and raspberries, my favourite.

Getting closer to Cape Verde, we change or sail setting. It was different to have to genua set at the same side.They didn’t always stay tight together but most of the time.

Cape Verde we made it!!! It took us 5 and a half day. We crossed the finish line on Friday 11th at 18.03 local time and as the 17th boat. We are so happy that it went so well. We was sure that we would come in in the middle. The winner boat came in after 3 1/2 day. They are not a crushing boat.