Sail away with me – Page 2 – Sailing with Saphir

Days in Namibia

Late again but will try to work on it…at the moment we are in Rio but let’s get back to the days in Walvis Bay

In the morning we hoist the anchor, or the guys pulls upp the anchor and we go in and moor next to Far. The location is definitely not the most charming place we been at, with the big harbour behind us but it is great to be moored on the pier away from the waves and knowing that we don’t need to jump in the dinghy every time we go a shore. The Walvis bay yacht club is just five minutes walk along the pier. They provides us with facilities and have a restaurant, a bar and a small beach. Next door is a few more restaurants and some souvenir and handicrafts stores. So we didn’t need to go far to have some food and meet up with our fleet friends.

First thing is to get in to town to check us in and at the same time we take the opportunity to get us sim card. Getting a sim card took much longer time than check us in. They need our passport to register our sim card. It is so much easier when we can use e-sim.

A bit maintenance needs to be done before we feel we can explore Namibia. Things that needs to be done is, oil check, filter change, cleaning, washing , extra this time is the windless and filling disel. Grocery shopping can be done before we leave. The windless was not broken which was huge relief, since next place is only anchoring. It turned out to be that the bluetooth remote was broken, so we are back using the one with a cable , but that is only working on getting the anchor up so down is a free fall…. Filling disel took us half a day since the fuelling place was at the other end of the harbour and when we arrived we was the first filling up and some how the information had not gone all the way to the guy in charge. A few calls and we got diesel. It was a new experience for us to fill up next to all the fishing boats with lots of guys standing in the pier and all curious of our sailing.

We didn’t have many days in Namibia but we managed to do a sandwich bay 4×4 wheel tour in the dunes. That was an amazing experience. A bit like a rollercoaster, glad that we didn’t drive our self. We would definitely got lost and maybe also got stucked. On the way to the dunes we past huge amount of birdlife and most of them where flamingos, we also past the salt industry. Just before the dunes started we was told that there where some wildlife as gnu, antilops and even a schakal. The schakal we didn’t see but a few antilops,

After the tour me and Edgar went up to Swapkonmund for a night. It is a half an hour drive up along the coast from Walvis bay. I was amazed about the landscape. These huge sand dunes along the coastline. Not strange that they build the houses close to the water. We arrived to the Swapkonmund hotel late afternoon so didn’t have the energy to walk around after our tour. From now on we will always we try to book at least two nights in the future. One night is to short if you want to see something more than just the hotel although is was a very nice one a great food.

On the last evening the Yacht club restaurant was closed but they arranged a barbecue evening for the fleet. Nice to see everyone before we head off to St Helena

Hugs Eva

Short sail to Reunion

It is a very short distance to Reunion only 130nm (same distance back and forward Nynäshamn-Visby, which we thought was long before we started sailing round the world) . The start is at 14.00 due to the fast sailors wouldn’t arrive in the middle of the night. Nice to see all sailing from the start.

It was a smooth sailing we had a lovely sunset with some of the boats sailing in to it in front of us. Now when we are three on board we can have longer sleep which is so nice. So in the morning when we arrive none if us needed a napp. First we went to fuel up. Swade is helping us with the sheets at the fuel station.

We tide up next to Mistral and have a pink champagne breakfast before we check in.

Some maintenance need to be done as the window in the cabine. Not the most convenient place to work in but Edgar manage it well. On the way to Reunion Edgar noticed that the engine had new sounds that was not supposed to be there so he finds a guy here how can fix them. It takes the engineers two turns out of the harbour to make sure that the sound is gone. It was the engine mounts that was not correct attached and we also gut all four now attached.

We went up to the crater Sainte-Rose and had a fantastic walk on part of it. The Vulcan is still active and last time was 2020. Even if I haven’t been on the moon but this is how imagen how it would look although without all the vegetation. After we went for lunch at a very different place. Didn’t look like a restaurant at all and lots of animals on the backside and some not so happy turkeys.

I also hade the benefit to go diving twice together with Karen, Madelene and Lars. It was really good although I needed some extra air since I was using mine to fast. All four dives we were down for more or less 60 minutes which I don’t think I ever done before so not strange that my air finished. Went in some caves which was fantastic, saw turtles,scorpion fish, Nemo,huge yellow moray eel and lots more.

On my next visit to this island I would definitely plan some hiking. The scenery my friends have shown me me was fantastic. Once again our bikes came out. It was a long way in to town to go food shopping and hard to get a cab. On the prize giving we got first prize to be the last boat in our group. We got a new handicap after adding an new sail which we never used and probably will not in the future either. Maybe that’s why or that several slower boats started earlier and was not part of the ”race”! Hahaha!

On our last night we went out to eat and this town is strange after 5 there is not many restaurants open but we found one where we had some tapas and house wine. Checking out the next morning and we are good to go and do the last crossing of the Indian Ocean

Hugs Eva

Crossing Indian Ocean.

Tjoho we are half way after a week sailing.

The start was on the 7th October at 11.00 we left Cocos Keeling to sail 2300 NM to Mauritius. It will take us 14-16 days .

The weather prediction tells us that we will have quite rough/rolling sailing with waves up to 4m. Our scopoderm plaster is on to avoid seasickness.

The first hours we had good wind and calm sea, After passed Cocos Keeling the waves came and we started to roll. This time it was quite okay but the dipping is not fun.

Tuesday morning we hear a huge bang on the boat. What was that and where?? I saw that our stay on starboard side was leaning forward.. It was broken. This “stay” goes up to the first spreader.Out of all stays this is the less worst to break. First Edgar hoped to use our kick . That means someone “me”- has to get in to our lasarett in the cockpit. And of course it is in the box furtherest in. Sadly it was to long. Next up is dynema. Back in the lasarett in the cockpit to get the kick back in the box and also find the dynema and schakles. So with dynema, metal stick and “schackel ’ we managed to strengthen up the “stay”. And to be more safe we also put an other stick in to the loop .

Thursday was an other rainy day. With confusing wind and waves from different angel. We were not feeling comfortable to go up in deck to put out the bom out so we changed the course instead. When the sea was a bit less rolling we went up and took the bom out on starboard side and we are back on right course.

Found an other window that is leaking. Puah!!! Not as bad as the kitchen window but still making a little pool under the window….. Good that we have more of the window sealing. Hard part is to reach it since our bunk bed is filled with a sail and other things.

I am knitting and make mistakes so need to take it up a bit make it right until I see a new mistake. Hope to have the jumper done before we are in Mauritius..

Can’t get enough of sunrise and sunset

Hugs Eva

Sailing and rolling to Cocos Keeling

So finally we are of. The wind is great but the waves… they are all over and high. The sailing is good and rolling is okay and then suddenly the waves smash in to each other and we dip so we get water on the portside deck.

This time knitting is not working very well since I need to hold on with one hand. Good to have books in the ear to listen to. Our blue canopy went up to protect us from the wind and rain in our cockpit. That was a great plan since two minutes later it was raining heavily good to get some salt of the boat. Ha ha not for long since a big wave came over the boat and luckily most was stop by the canopy but some came in to the cockpit. I got a bit wet but not to bad.

I will admit that I thought after being on the sea so long I thought I had sea legs but sadly not. The first day I was fine but on the second and third I felt very tired and going in to the boat was not fun. On top of that our kitchen window started to leak a lot. After every big waves on the side we had to dry the shelf’s under the window. Something must be done to get less water in. A huge plastic bag and silver lots of silver tape helped to 80 procent but still we were getting some water on the shelf’s but not as much as before. One more thing to fix….

Almost there! After spent four nights on the sea it so nice to know that we soon will anchor. Next leg I will have my plaster on for seasickness for sure.

We are anchored at Direction island on Cocos Keeling. Here you have wave protection and bit of the wind. Home Island is where most of the inhabitants live and there is food store,hardware store, post office, pharmacy, two cafes,a museum and souvenir shop that was not open when we were there. Then there is West Island where the airport is some hotels.

First we had to check in on the island also this time easy and smooth with the police coming out to the island. Fantastic beach with lots of shelter to hangout and have BBQs

Time to look at the window. We changed the sealing and with the new sealing it was very hard to close so fingers crossed that this will be enough. The cleaning up was little more than I thought. The hole storage in the bench was also filled with water. All out and was and dry. Then the freezer got som water also so our ice cubs was very salty.

We have a few other things to fix as well. As filling hydraulic oil. Wish I had a photo of us doing this. The hydraulic tank is behind our shower. So Edgar is sitting in the shower and me on the floor in front of him holding the oil can while he is pumping in the oil with a handpump. I can tell you it was very hot. Edgar was dripping sweat on me. Ha ha ha!!

Next was taking out the madrases from the bed and fix a wire that had moved and then grease the rudder again. Doing som food preparing, baking, clothes washing, boat cleaning etc. All the things we normally do…

We went snorkelling on the rip where you jump in and just go with the current . Lots of fishes and lovely clams. Even went to a manta ray cleaning station but sadly no manta rays. The day before people had seen them there so probably only wrong timing. There was also a few reef sharks round the boat every day so have had my share of seeing fishes.

We have had great days with our fellow sailing friends. Been to home Island where we was told the history of the Island. One funny thing is that they all have different surnames. Good that it is only around five hundred people living there. We were showen how to weave baskets out of palm leaves.

We really have enjoyed the days here in Cocos Keeling at Distinction Island, with BBQ s in the evenings on the beach. The last day we had a potluck lunch where Swade and Andrew from Arc also joined. I even had a knitting lesson to learn out the basic. Let’s see how well they have done when I see them in Mauritius for the second lesson.

Me and Lorraine picking some branches to the fire.

After six days exploring Cocos Keeling it is time to leave. Won’t mind to have a day or to just relax but we have 2300 NM ahead of us to get to Mauritius. The weather conditions are so so.. wind okay but some big waves and those are the one I really don’t like. This time the scopoderm plaster is on so no seasickness I hope.

Will see if I will do any updates on the crossing otherwise I will be back in little more than 2 weeks

Hugs Eva

Christmas Island

After a hole night sleep we are ready to get checked in in Australia again. It was very quick and smooth check in. Now we have less than 48 hours to fix things before we have leave again. Next up is filling diesel and see if we can join any tours. Filling diesel can be easy and it is in generally but when you are on a buoy it is a harder. First of all you need a few jerry cans which we don’t have on our boat but luckily our friends are happy to lend us 8 jerrycans. Then you have to get to the gas station to fill them up get them back to the boat in our dinghy fill up and then one more tour and we are done…

The tour was fully booked so no tour for us but I hade some really nice snorkling in the bay. Manage to do some grocery shopping and got us Christmas Island T-shirts. In the evening we had great a bbq with the fleet that was arranged by the Arc .

Next morning it was time for us to leave. We decided to leave after lunch to reach Cocos Keeling in daylight. Great then I had time for doing one laundry.

When we are using the washing machine or the stove we turn on our generator so our batteries won’t go empty. This time the generator didn’t want to start. With help from yellow shirts we got two mechanic to have a look. The fuel pump was broken and luckily they had to spare that we bought. The new was in and the generator was on. Edgar drives the mechanic back to land and five minutes later the generator stops. Edgar tries to start it again but it dint work. Back with the mechanic and have a look. The mechanic found out that the “reducer” from 24v-12v for the fuel pump was broken. We didn’t have that part nighter did they so they decided to run the cables directly to the battery. This means we have two switches on the fuel pump and then the generator instead of just starting the generator. Since it was very late afternoon and it would take them a few hours to fix this we had stay the night.

Kaos all is out under the sofa since the batteries are there

Next morning at 7.30 the mechanics arrives and fixes the last things. I take a walk and tries to see some of thes red crabs that there is a lot of on this island. I saw one. It is not really season for them.

The generator is working , washing mashing is on and our batteries is getting charged. They were almost empty and we like to have them filled up since we are going to sail all the way. At 13.30 we leave the bouy and hoist our Genua and head out. Crossing the start line at 14.45 on the 28th September. 520 Nm to sail

Hugs Eva

On our way to Christmas Island ut

Half the fleet are gathering at the start line and all are using engine. Not really a sailing rally but what to do when there is no wind and then when it comes it is straight in our nose.

After a few hours we are getting in to a very current area. First we have it with us and then against us and then chaos. The current is all over and the sea looks like it is boiling. We are motoring which normally is a speed of 6-7 knots know we are doing 0.9-1.5. On top of that the gps on the plotter has gone bananas… Good that it is daytime and we can see land on both sides so we know where we are going. In the middle of this chaos there was some calm areas where we saw fins that we think was shark that was eating and also saw some bigger dolphins.

Well out of that chaos we hoist our mainsail and then we hear a klonk on the deck. We found some hard plastic things that are supposed to be on the top of the mast… during the day we found some more. New spare part is ordered and we will get it in Mauritius. This means that we probably can’t use our mainsail over the Indian ocean. Let’s see, we will get one crew from an other boat going up to the mast to have a look. Very happy for that. I am a bit frightened of heights. The next breaking was the hook on our little boom that holds the boom onto the mast.

This 620 Nm has continued being challenging with not much wind, current with and against and waves that are rolling the boat. This rolling ended up with water again in the kitchen. Time to fix new sealing strip around the window . The Blue water runner came up which took us an hour with all the booms and lines to realise that the wind dropped. We keept it up so we could use it an other time which we did but the waves made it hard to keep the wind in the sail.

One of the days we hade really nice current. It gave us between 1.5-2 kn extra speed. During this four days we have sailed maybe one third.

On Tuesday morning when we were sailing we saw a huge amount of dolphins coming towards us. They stayed and played around the bow for 10 minutes. They always give me a big smile.

Every morning and evening we have roll calls over the SSB where we tell each other how the night and day been. Rest of the time we take turns to sleep and have watch. Breakfast and dinner we have together lunch sometimes. I am knitting and listening to books , Edgar sits and thinks a lot or do a sudoko. This leg we have also taken a lot of showers.. it has been so hot not complaining but being on deck where there is some wind but full sun we are sweeting as soon as we work with the sails. Comparing with sailing back home in Sweden with full gear on I rather do this. We did have one rain shower for two minutes in the night. We did se it coming on the radar and avoided the worst part.

We can see land, it’s only 22 Nm left until we are in a buoy. To be on the buoy before the sun is down we turn on the engine. We pass the finish line at 18.44 Lombok time. Lots of motoring hours so we will need around 400l diesel. That will be tomorrows work tonight we are just happy to lay on a buoy and to get a hole night sleep in our own bed and not on the sofa in the salon.

Hugs Eva

We are sailing again!

After spent 6 weeks on land we were so happy to be sailing again. We have done the half to start our next half of sailing around the world. The first 4 hours we sailed but as sone as we had rounded the island north of Darwin it died. The motor went on .

We kept looking for sea snakes, turtles, dolphins, fishing vessels etc. Fishing vessels we saw some and they are not always easy to spot. Luckily we saw them all in good time to keep away from them. Happy to see some dolphins that did high jumps as well.

The most exciting thing was when we had a special delivery to the boat from Mistral. It appeared that we did not have sea card on our plotter covering Indonesia. Good that Mistral had 2.

Can’t get enough of all these lovely sunset and sunrise so here are some more

We ended up using 101 hours motoring plus the hours from finish line to Medina Marina where we moored. It took us All in all 6 days and happy to arrived in Lombok and looking forward to meet the rest of the fleet.

The checking in went very smooth . All authorities were gathered at the marina.

Hugs

Eva

Days in Darwin part 1

We have planned a hall out of Saphir on the 9th of Aug and going back in on the 4 sep to get the hull painted again so we have less things that can grow on the hull which will help us not so lose speed. The growing can actually slow us done up to 1 knot.

Before we start all fixing on the boat me and Karen took a tour in to town to get a few things and look at the town. Had some lunch at waterfront where city meets the water. Here you can swim safe and they even have a pool with waves. We didn’t have time for this this time.

Since the boat is getting up we need to defrost the freezer and the fridge. Lots of ice in the fridge little freeze box.. Nafier the mechanic found why it was making noice in the machine room. The rubber stabiliser under the engine was broken. New ordered and hope to get them before we leave.

Next thing is to repair our heat exchanger . This took other mechanics 20 hours work in the boat and three to times bringing it to their workshop. New is ordered and will hopefully get to us in Mauritius. Let’s hope it will work until then or actually much longer.

Time to haul out Saphir early morning due to the tide. Mornings like this with a beautiful sunrise, puts a smile on my face even though the day didn’t end as we hoped. Sadly or more very annoying, the boat that was getting in to the water had problem so we ended up not getting out of the water.

Back to the marina and trying to cancel our hotel booking since Saphir is not on the hard. It was to late and we had stay at the hotel…. poor us getting air condition, lots of space, specially over our heads and a pool. Although we spent the days at the marina me sewing and Edgar checking the workers. Evenings we enjoyed Darwin trying different restaurants.

Time flies and time to check out of the hotel, pack again to go visiting our Aussi “family” in Sydney.

Hugs Eva

1400 NM to Australia

Tuesday 22 May at 9.00 we have an appointment with the custom to check out of New Zealand. The custom gave us 30 min to leave and was not happy when we said that we needed to fill up the diesel. We left Bay of Island just a few minutes more than the 30 he gave us.

Around lunchtime we turn of the engine and enjoy the coastline where we saw a lovely rainbow.

It took only 1/2 hour and the engine was on again and after 4 hours we had to turn back since we started to take in water in the engine room. It is the same problem as we had in Tuamotos. The water pump to cool the main engine broke. Back in the same mooring place early evening. We had dinner on board and went to bed early to be up and ready in the morning when the mechanic arrives.

The leak is fixed and we have a new appointment with the custom to do a new checkout at 11.30. The weather looked still okay to start our sailing which we were very happy about. You never know when the next weather window will be.

After two really rough sailing days it is nice to have a bit calmer sea. Even if the waves are higher then before they are longer, which makes a much softer roll, although from time to time there comes one wave that really rock the boat. We been drinking a lot of water, had a sandwich for breakfast and some bars, buns and biscuits. So on our third day Edgar made us some food.Noodles in a cane, just add warm water. Easy but so good to get something warm in our bodies.

We take shifts and tries to sleep for a couple of hours. It is not that easy in the rolling sea. I tried to make the bed as tight as possible so we don’t ride around like a soap in a soap dish. There is a few hours when it is totally black and we can’t see anything except the stars. Then the moon comes up and it lights up so we can see the sea, waves and the clouds. You can even read a book in that light. After a few days on the sea you mix up the days so it is good that we have calendar in our mobiles to tell which day it is.

Tuesday at 20.00 we changed to Australia time which means turning the time back 2 hours. At this point it didn’t do much

Wednesday we put up the stay sail with the boom out on port side and the genoa starboard side. It is a very nice and smooth sailing that day. Next day we need to change the settings and the stay sail goes in and the genoa goes the port side and change the course a bit.

It is very rolly again. Things starts to bang in the boat and suddenly the coffemachine and baking machine fell down, nothing broken but wet on the carpet from the water in the coffemachine.

Edgar fell in the stairs just before we left and strained his foot.It is still a bit swallowed but looking better.

Friday we have good wind and doing 6-8 knots, a few squalls so we been reefing the sail a few times. Highlight was the dolphins that came and swam around for 10 min. 175NM left. The water temperature is getting warmer 24.7 degrees from 18 degrees when we started in Opua

The sea can’t make up its mind!!! The waves are coming from all over it feels like we are having a good speed from 4.5 to 9 knots with only less then half off the genua out.

We reach the tip of Fraiser Island and turn in towards Bundaberg. 40 nm left and we are in Australia. The last 40 nm we motor sail since the wind is not that good. All in all we had a good sailing in the sense that we have not used the engine a lot on the other hand it has been the worst in the sense of rolling. Our bodies are so tiered and looking forward to sleep in our bed a full night without any rolling.

We arrived in Bundaberg Marina and dropped the anchor on Saturday night and stayed there until Monday morning when we checked in with custom and bio security. Everything went well and now we just relax a few days before we head up towards Mackay to get new start batteries and meet up with Chris and Karen on Mistral.

Hugs Eva

Galápagos Islands Part 1 San Cristóbal

We arrived early in the morning to San Cristóbal and just before we where going to anchor the sky literally opened up. Luckily I have a really good yellow raincoat to keep me dry. After three tries we are anchored and have put up our presening to keep the rain out from the cockpit. Time for some breakfast and some sleep.

Due to the restrictions we had to stay on the boat until the boat had been cleared in and checked the hull by a diver and inside by 10 different people from different authorities for anything we are not allowed to bring with us from others countries. We was told that our frozen meat was going to be sealed but they didn’t do that although some other boats got their meat sealed Lots of paperwork. The immigration lady had left when they arrived to our boat at 17 so we will do that the next morning . Now we are good to go a shore.

We can’t use our own dinghy due to all the sea lions so we have to rely on taxi boats. There are sea lions all over this city mostly of course on the rocks and beaches but some of them also goes up in to the town. There was also a few lizards in town and we was told that it is their breeding season so they come up and lay there eggs on land.

We went diving around the kicker rock . It was great. We saw lots of hamar sharks, black tip sharks, some turtles, one mantra and lots of other small fishes. Need to get a book to know little more about all these fishes we see.

Every evening there was happy hour at the hotel where the Arc crew was stationed and most of us went there to meet up before dinner. Lots off different restaurants here to choose from so no eating in the boat for us. I am happy since I get a lot of fish to eat. Haven’t been much of that in the boat. No luck in fishing . We take taxi boat in and out and also when we fill up the diesel they come out with it in a boat

The Arc had a half day trip booked for us to see part of the island. We went to a turtle nursery? The land turtles was getting less due to humans. Know the amount is growing again and the inhabitants are involved in keeping the turtles safe.

We also went to a very lovely beach on the other side of the island. There was some sea lions around the rocks sleeping and if we would have stayed until five we might have seen sharks. Lots of salamanders also and this one was not afraid he just looked at me. There was this little creature p

Next stop was a crater filled with water and a fantastic view. It was very high up, many steps and so wort it. Sadly Edgars knee was not good so he missed it.

Walking around in SanCristobal you see a lot off different houses and styles. Some are still under construction and at the same time the finished part is already rented out and opened up businesses in and living in.

The last evening on San Cristóbal Christian on Hoka hey organised a dinner for al of us at The Pier. Almost everyone came so at the end we where around 70 people. We had a great evening with all our friends.