Sailing in Fiji – Sailing with Saphir

Fiji in between crews

Sorry for delay. Here you can read about our last days in Fiji before our friends arrive to sail with us to New Zealand.

We have been asked many times how we spend our days when we are not sailing. Easy we sleep long have breakfast, lunch,dinner and then go to bed…hahaha . In between all the eating and sleeping the boat needs to take care off and also we need to rest. Living on a boat is like constantly moving/rocking your body even when you laying in bed. Being on anchor is a bit calmer during night but not always . The most safest place to be calm is to moor in a marina although even there it can be rolling. We have had two particular marinas that I am thinking of but probably there was more. The first one and the worst one was Porto in Portugal and the other was Mindelo in Cap Verde. Being moored means that at least the ground is not moving when you walk… So after we have rested and have our energy back we have to do maintenance in/on/under the boat. Inside and outside cleaning as anyone else that have a home,washing clothes, reorganise when we get new crew (we tend to spread our things around when it is only us two) and on top of that there is a hull that needs to be cleaned. That means you have to jump into the water have your snorkel and mask on and start to scrape of the barnicals and everything else that grows on the hull. It does make a difference in speed if you get rid of it. Since I really do like being in the water I don’t mind cleaning the hull but not always, and specially when there is these itching things in the water…. Don’t like them. There is though an easier way to clean the boat(at least for me) and that is lifting the boat and wash the hull with high pressure wash. This is not very often though due to there is not always a place where we can lift the boat and of course it is not free. This time in Fiji we lifted the boat since we also needed the hull to get painted. There are some strict regulations to get in to New Zealand and one of them is to have a clean hull. And Saphir is not clean and the propeller need some extra care and a new paint.

During this time me and Edgar checked in to First Landing resort next to the marina. It is so nice to sleep in a normal bed with lots of space and a roof that is high up so you can even stand up in your be and walk around it and not crawl in to the bed. We was spoiled with our own pool which was extra nice to use before bedtime to cool down in.

We had lovely days at the resort, walking on the beach, hanging by the pool, enjoying dinner and performances in the evening. I took some walks and Edgar went over to check on the boat to make sure the painting went well on the hull and the propeller.

Our friends Jocke and Magnus arrives very early in the morning and we have breakfast at the resort before it is time to head to the boat and get her in to the water again.

Hugs Eva

Marie’s visiting us in Fiji continues

The first dive for Marie after she took her license needed to be celebrated with bubbles and some nice food. Next morning we check out and head towards the Yasawa island and to see the caves. This time the passage was much calmer and we had a nice current with us we went though it quick. We will not make it to the other reef before it is dark so we anchor in a bay and enjoy the sunset, the stars(picture taken with my Mobil. So much easier when the boat is not moving) and the sunrise. At 5.00 we wake up and head out to get through the passage and hoist the sail.

We have a great sailing day. The wind is around 8-10m/s and waves 1,5-2m. The wind is getting stronger and the waves got higher so we decide to reduce the mainsail. It didn’t work that well……the sail came out in full instead. This was not good. The wind was 15 m/s (30knots) and the waves was 2-3m so we didn’t feel comfortable to go up on deck to get the standing battens out of the mainsail. We change course and went behind the main island to get wind shade. Here was less wind and no waves so time to get these standing battens out of the mainsail. Since we furle in our sail in to the mast the battens are standing and are very long from 4m up to 20m. Now when the battens are out the sail can come down and together we tighten it up around the boom. New plans is made since we can’t make it the caves.

We found a bay close to the reef opening and anchored there for the night. Lots of smoke coming from the controlled fires on the island. Luckily the wind is right so we don’t smell the smoke. Time for a night swim before we go to bed.

Next morning we head to Blue lagoon next to Nanuya island. Suddenly we have 20 dolphins around the boat. Now everything feels much better and seeing dolphins compensate a bit that we missed the caves.

After we had anchored at Blue lagoon it was time to fix so that we could furle in the sail in the mast. Since we had this problem seven years ago(that we couldn’t furle in the mainsail)Edgar made sure we had the spear part that was broken that time. It was a small metal thing but it was a bit to long so it needed to be cut off. Me holding on to it with a poly grip and Edgar cutting it. Took us a few times to get the right length but we made it and the problem is solved. The furler is working and now we need a very calm day to hoist up the sail again.

We enjoy the sunset but are a bit frighten when we see big fires on the island next to us even though we understand it should be under control. Feel sorry for the people who are staying at the resort on that island. Must smell alot. The fire was on for two hole days also.

Time to explore the island and walk over to Lo’s tea house. It was a long, hot and beautiful walk. The view was great when we came up to the top. We was rewarded with a fresh lemonade and Fiji donut.

The ferry can’t get in to the pier so smaller boats comes out to leave and pick up people. In the evening we had dinner at Sami’s house and celebrated also his sons birthday. Herman and Ute from Thetis was also here at the Blue lagoon. So nice to see them again.

We wanted to dive again so we hoist the anchor and went south to Manta rays passage. First we snorkelled in the passage hoping to see some Manta rays but no luck but we saw lots of fishes and nice corals. We got to dive the next day. This time we was six divers and 2 instructors which feelt good until we started to dive. Our diver friends did not keep distance from us or swam together with their buddy which made it a bit enojing . You miss part off the fun in the dive since your focus is more keeping away from the others ( which of course you always do but then you expect the other also to keep away) Part from that it was a interesting dive in tunnels. Not a fan of that but fun to have done it. We saw one shark but not a great picture though and and we saw also an giant moray looking out from its hideout. All in all it was two okey dives. The sight was good even if the the water was not that clear. Feelt like it was a lot of plankton in the water.

I went snorkelling next to our boat after our dive. This is still my favourite snorkelling spot so far. Lots of cool corals, fishes and colours. Got a cool photo of the sun shining in the water

Next stop was Musket Cove. It was quit many boats there but we found a spot to drop the anchor. Here we stayed a few nights before we needed to go back to Vuda Marina. Me and Marie went for a long walk around the island perfect timing when it was low tie. We ended it with a dip in the pool.

Me and Marie went out to dive the next day and this time the other divers knew how to act which made the dive so much easier and more fun. The first dive I had problem with my tank. It was leaking a bit but managed anyway stay down for 37 min. The rest of the group came up 5 min later. Lots of fishes and a few black tip sharks as well. On the second dive we went next to a sandbank which appears only when it is low tie. Here we saw a very cool coral that looks like cabbage I also saw a moray. Which I didn’t catch on my camera this time.

Join me in to the water

Time to head back to the marina to prepare the boat for getting it out of the water since we are going to paint the hull. Not me and Edgar though we let the Yacht help do it for us. The freezer and fridge needs to get emptied since they don’t work when the boat is on land as they are water cooled. Good that the marina has a freezer where we can keep our food. And it was really time to defrost them as well. I took out all stored food boxes and realised we still have little more than we need of dry food ,cans and spices for our sailing to New Zealand. I have to make sure we don’t have any food that is not allowed to bring into New Zealand so we just buy the nesicery that we need as some fresh food and water. The dinner was taken at First Landing . This is the first time we are sitting indoors eating dinner, but it was raining heavy this evening. Luckily it had stopped when it was time for the fire show .

In the Marina there is a sea swimming pool more or less hidden on the island outside the restaurant. I have been out there several times but not swimming in it. Now it was time to try it and it was lovely. Since it is getting seawater in it naturally there was some small fishes and also some crabs.

Last dinner at the Boat Sheed restaurant with Marie before Karan picks her up and brings her to the airport. Thank you Marie for sailing with us. It was great to have you onboard and hope you learned to slow down and relax a bit. I am extra happy that I got a diving buddy

Hugs Eva

This was an extra long post. There will come a blog later from our days in between guests in Fiji. Until then enjoy the days we had with Marie. Love to here from you readers

Fiji days with Ella and family

We had almost 25 hours to clean the boat, do the laundry, going to physiotherapist (me) and have a dinner just the two of us before Ella, Filip and Nellie arrived on Friday 14July.

The plan is to stay in the Marina get batteries hopefully on Monday or Tuesday. Lucky me I got a nespresso machine. From now on nice coffe onboard Saphir. Not the best weather over the weekend rain and cloudy. With right cloths and umbrellas we are of to get some ice cream.

The rain stops and we decided to go to First Landing for dinner or me and Edgar take the bikes and Ella and Filip walks. Nellie has the best place in our wagon and granddad pulling her. Hopefully she will fall a sleep on the way back. Hmmmm

Ella wanted us to come with here when she was going to have some massage at First Landing the next day. Not much of a beach as it was low tie but Nellie had fun and I enjoyed a coffee.

We rented a car since the batteries will take little longer time to get. Bio security will fume them? Don’t understand why and then of course some paper work… Driving on the left side is not for me so Edgar has to be our designated driver. Our first stop at Sri Siva Subramaniya Swami Tempel. I had brought my sarong and one to Ella so we was good but the guys had also to cover their knees.

Made a stop in Nadi to find a support belt for my hip. Didn’t find the correct one but one that will do for know. Will continue look or get someone to bring it with them from Sweden. Me and Ella meet this lovely lady that introduced Ella to Savusavu. Ella was not so keen on it either.

Next to the roads there is railways and also in to the land. These is not railways for commuting it is for the suger plants. Now is the season to harvest so we see a lot of them.

In the Marina they have started to build some nice shades and put up hanging chairs(hammock?). Very nice to sit in and watch the boats coming in and out of the harbour.

I have a training partner. She is cheating a bit though and are done long before me. Some how I promised Nellie in a weak moment to make her a rainbow jumper. These are the colors. Pict on the jumper will come. Let see if I manage to make it before they leave. So training, knitting is not all we do when we hang around in the boat I also do some baking. Since we end up staying here until Thursday and we took out the pool for Nellie so she could have some fun. An 80feet catamaran came up next to us and suddenly we feel very tiny…

Thursday the batteries arraives after Edgar and Karran (our taxi driver) went to the warehouse to make sure we got them. At 5.00 pm the batteries are here and now we wait for the custom to come so we can lift them onboard. We bought them as yacht in transit to avoid vat. 5.30pm the custom guy arrived and saw them taken onboard our boat. Yippie we can leave the Marina after 10 days for us and a week for Ella& fam. Friday morning we are off to Muskat Cove. We get some help with the lines from the marina since we are moored with two buoys in the front that crosses over the other boats. Getting out of the marina Nellie enjoys the sailing or motoring for be exact. After 3 hours we have anchored outside Musket cove.

We will go in and see if they have some space for us tomorrow. For now we will enjoy not being in a harbour and the benefits of jumping in to the water whenever you feel for it. It is though so much easier to be in the harbour with the family. Then everyone can leave the boat when they want and not need the dinghy. First of all we need to cool down and enjoy the water and freedom to jump of the boat in to the water when ever we feel like it. This is the one off the best things with anchoring in a bay.

The morning after we went in with the dinghy to have a look and there was a lot of free space so don’t know why he said we couldn’t come in yesterday. Never mind we went straight out again and took Saphir in to the harbour since it was high tie.

Nellie loved the pool and tried to get friends or getting help with the water. Nellie did meet a new friend and her name was also Nellie. They had great fun together at the pool and also at the restaurant.

We went to the song and dance show at the restaurant this time also and Nellie loved it and also went up dancing

Me and Ella went snorkelling on the reef just outside the harbour. It was okay but the sight was not that clear. I have seen much better places. Fun for Ella to snorkel and the first time for me in six weeks. Feelt good that I can do that again. Saw a lot of blue starfishes and a cool heart shaped pink coral and a few fishes as well

A week goes fast and it is time to leave Muskat Cove for this time and head to Vuda Marina again. It is not that far but someone got tiered. I am working hard on the jumper to Nellie, still have some color strips to ad before it is done…… can be hard to be done before they leave. In the marina we end up next to the catamarans again and we do feel very small although our mast is almost the same hight.

Went in to Nadi again to have a look around the town. Visit the fruit and vegetables market that was very nice. We also went to visit the handicraft market and that was a bit of disappointment. Felt that many of the things was not made in Fiji.

Back in the boat and our last evening Nellie wanted to make ponytail on grandma with help of grandpa that didn’t work that well… so grandpa let her do Pippi Longstocking ponytails on him instead….with some help from grandma.

Need to show the sunset. Been a few days without it… Nellie decide that she wanted sleep with me and grandpa since it was her last night with us until we come home . A bit tight in the bed so I ended up turning me around. Seems my feet didn’t smell to bad. The next morning they are off and will see them in end of October. Safe flight back home to Sweden.

Big hugs Eva

Fiji with Elise

Suva yatch club anchor place didn’t make a good impression on us rather the opposite. Lots of ship wrecks and ships that almost are a wreck.

We decided to leave and found a bay just around the corner. This feels much better. Although it is a bit rolly when the tie comes and goes. We stay here over night and I did some very stupid thing so my hip and leg got really bad. Hope it will get better soon. Elise is a bit yet lagged and I try out my new baking machine. This will take a few times I guess to get a great result. First I guess was to much flour.

We leave the bay next morning and head up to Nadi. Outside Denarau Marina we drop the anchor since the marina was full. We take the dinghy in to the marina to do some shopping and fill up petrol to the dinghy. When we came in and starts walking I realise that my leg /hip is worse then I thought. Can only walk 10- 20m before it is to painful to walk. After done the shopping I am totally exhausted and can’t walk…. Grateful that Erik is in Denarau and gives me a pain relief shot and some strong pills. Feels already much better on the way back to Saphir.

Laying in anchor outside Denarau was not the best place and we realise that many of the fleet is in Vuda Marina so we decided to go there. It is a very nice relaxed marine. Not as commercial marina as Denarau.

As Elise have been on big cargo ships she have learned a few tricks how clean a boat. I am very happy that she us to clean part of the boat. She also went up the mast to free the flag that had got stuck in the mast.

We went in to the Boat Sheed(the restaurant in the marina) for dinner in the evening together with Chris and Karen. We had a great evening that ended up with Chris singing karaoke and Karen joining him.

Often it is something that needs to be fixed, repaired or replaced on the boat when we come to a marina. This time the boat was okay but me and Edgar where broken. I can hardly walk and Edgar have problem with his back. Poor Elise was looking forward to sail around the island in Fiji but ended up in Vuda Marina and a few day at a resort. The days in the resort help Edgar a lot and I was feeling a bit better but still not good enough to walk . We did enjoy our days at the pool and lovely dinners. So nice to sleep in a full size bed, a bed you don’t need to crawl in and is totally still.

Elise went on a day trip on a catamaran. She snorkelled and saw lovely corals and fishes. This is what I hope to do and see soon.

Back in the marina after days at the resort Edgar and Elise goes to do some grocery shopping while I rest… So glad that we have our folding bikes onboard. This is my life saver. I am not stuck on the boat although we can take the dinghy in to the marina where there is a restaurant, chandelier and a food/ cafe/gift shop. To walk from the boat to the marina takes about 5-10 min and for me probably 20 -30 min, since I have to stop every 20meter due to pain. Biking is without any pain and the roads are okay to bike on. I can easily move around. We saw that is was going to be a market on First Landing resort so me and Elise took the bikes over to check it out. Found some nice things. Most of them handmade by the locals. I even bought a small bag that I had to wait for to be done

Vuda Marina next to the resort. Short distance but long to walk to.

In the evenings we went there with our friends and had dinner. They had performance and invited us up to dance with them. It was only Elise and Karen who went up. New drinks has to tries and Elises was very blue and good she said.

Our last evening with Elise. She leaves early morning to fly home to Sweden and start work. Safe flight back Elise and next time we hope that you can sail a bit more …

Hugs Eva

Getting to Fiji

Together with Amanzi and Matilda we hoist the anchor in the sunrise and set course to the Lau groups in the west side of the Fiji Island.

I have prepared our sleeping spot in the salon on the floor since it is going to be a very wobbly crossing. To make it softer I even put a madras’s against the cupboard and pillows on the other side to make it softer. This is definitely the best spot. Don’t understand why I haven’t done this every time. Slept so much better here. It is a two night sailing and approximate 300NM. At 2,30 in the morning we have 190 NMs left. We will be in Lau group early morning next day.

First some lovely sunset pictures.

At 8.20 Tonga time we reach the opening of the reef. This is the first time since our start of sailing that we turn back the clock 1hour and not forward. That means we are on the other side of the world from home. It took us a year to get here and if you fly it takes 30-36 hours depending on hours in airports. A bit different. We arrive in Lomaloma on the Vanuatu Balavu island and drop our anchor at 10.30. Now we wait for the rest of the fleet and specially Rob from World Arc. We didn’t have to wait long. An hour later we have been checked in to Fiji. The 4 authorities plus the agency came out to the boat. Very efficient and we are ready to leave and take us slowly around to the other side of the island.

After some very tricky narrow passages with lots off coral reefs and the scary coral heads that can be just under the surface we dropped the anchor at a lovely spot. Later we heard that five boats hits this coral heads and some needed some repairs later. What a lovely place. Would really love to come back and explore more.

Next morning we found this jello thing under our roof in the cockpit. How did it get in?? And what is it? No time to wonder just clean up and we are of to the main island and Suva to pick up Elise our youngest daughter that arrived on the 14th. She is staying at a hotel in Suva. Apparently not the safest city so no fun going outside the hotel area.

One night crossing and we will be in Suva. At noon we have 144NM left and at 5 next morning 40NM left. It takes time to sail. We have a lovely sunrise and greets by dolphins when we get closer. They where not the only one checking on us. Suddenly there came a rib boat with the coast guard asking to come onboard to check our papers. They said it was a routine check. No others boat friends after us had them onboard. This is the third time we have been checked by the coast guard. Wonder what so special about our boat?

Finally we see Suva. We talk to Elise and can see hers hotel we think. She sees us sailing outside the reef. Lots of boat wrecks and boats that are almost a wreck here. This place doesn’t look very safe or nice. It doesn’t matter we drop the anchor and Edgar takes the dinghy in to pick her up. Elise have arrived and now we have 9 days together to explore part of Fiji.