The big day is here… we are going to sail from Galapagos to Marquesas just me and Edgar on Saphir. It is 3000NM ahead of us and we are very pleased that we have the rest of the World Arc fleet around. Although we might not see so many of them on the plotter but we will speak to them twice a day on the SSB net.
We will cross some timelines during this sailing, It will be in total -3,5 hours (-9.5H UTC)when we get to Marquesas. The boat clock will follow the Galapagos time (-6Hour UTC)until we are anchored in Hiva-Oa Marquesas.
On the third night sitting and watching the sun set and taking some photos we suddenly get company by lots of dolphins. The played around our bow for 10 minutes before they move on.
The next morning the engine had to work for a few hours due to no wind and unfortunately we got water in the engine room. Edgar saw what the problem was but it is not easy to fix on sea. So we have to empty it out from time to time. To see how much that comes in we have taken of one off the hatches to the floor to see. Just have to be very careful when we go down in the boat. An other day our generator stopped working and we had to use the main engine to load our battery until Edgar had tried different things and solved it by changing an impeller.
On the 6th night Edgar woke me up since we needed to take down our gennaker due to all the squalls around us. The weather got more tens and soon we saw thunder. Suddenly we have Hoka hey near us and we kept in contact during the hole night and steered around to avoid the thunder. It felt very good to have one boat close to us during those hours. Early in the morning we could relax. The sun was getting up and cleared the sky. That morning when I took the net call Edgar slept trough it all. It can be quit noisy and lots of schhrr and shhh sounds from the radio. In the middle of this is where we sleep. We can’t sleep in our cabin due to all the rolling so we take turns on the couch which we have put an extra mattress from the bow cabin.
There will be lots of sunset and sunrises on this trip and they all look different so it is very hard to choose so here are a few and some with dolphins
12 Mars at 04.00 we have done halfway which we celebrated with a glass of bubbles the next evening. We also discovered that we had got company on the boat. A grey feted booby had sleepy on our sun panels. In the morning Edgar manage to get him of the boat so we could clean the sun panels. It was not that easy but lots off water , holding tight on to boat that is rolling we got it cleaned. Now we just needed to keep the boby away from the boat. That’s why Edgar have the stick next to him. Took us the hole day until the booby gave up.
13 Mars, still sailing with the genaker but the wind change and we switch to wing by wing. Much more comfortable sailing. Edgar decides to change the impeller on the generator since it is not working so well with the cooling system. So far so good. While the generator is on and loading our battery I take the opportunity to make a suger cake to celebrate Edgars brother Mattias on his birthday. This is for you Matti, Happy Birthday!and I will make the cake for you when I am home. I also made us pancakes for breakfast. Trying out different mixes since I am saving the eggs and flour for baking. Think I found one good that we also can use for waffles.
I believe I got some energy after that breakfast or maybe just bored since I did some clothes washing and polished some of the crome that got rostat. Can’t just sit knitting and listen to books.
After many days on sea and needed to change sails we are getting better and better in changing the different sails settings and I do feel more comfortable doing it know. It is quit heavy, hard and tricky to take down the spinnaker and then take the spinnakerboom out as a preventer for the genua and the main boom for the other genua. Our wing by wing sail.
Today we spotted five killer wales we think. Haven’t seen any dolphins or whales in five six days so this was very nice to see. No picture though but some on my knitting that I worked on.
Late in the evening on our net call there was an mayday call from a non WARC boat that had hit a whale and the boat sank. The whale actually came up under the boat and hit the rudder so it started to leak and in 20 min the boat sank. All four from the boat went in their lifeboat and had also their dinghy with them. We and several other boats change our course to help them. Around midnight we heard a cargo ship calling them and an others boat that was near them. Felt good to know that the lifeboat was spotted and an hour later we heard on the rescue sending live in VHF. The four crew went on the sailing boat RollingStone and we was told that they will sail with them to Hiva-Ou where we all are heading. With this great news we turned back to our track and head to Marquesas and Hiva-Ou.
I was never keen on doing night sailing before we started our circumnavigation adventure specially if it was only me and Edgar on the boat. Mostly I think is that our sleep is not great and sit out on the boat and watch and see nothing since it is totally black. Can’t recall that we have these night sky’s up in the north as we have now in the south. The moon is shining up so I see the ocean and the waves and on top off that all the stars and Milky Way is magical. Sadly it is hard to take photo on a rolling boat when the camera wants your to hold it still. Done my best to capture the sky and the moon. Easier is to catch the sunrise which greets you after the night watch. Changing from dark red to brighter to orange and then yellow . All these lovely colours painting the horizon together with all the clouds
The 15 Mars at 19.34 we have done 2/3 of our sailing only 1000NM left to go. Fingers crossed that we will have wind and can make around 6 -7 knots. If so we will arrive around the 22 of Mars. On the 16 of Mars at 07 we put on the engine since there is now wind to talk about. We are doing only 2,5-3,5 knots. That is not fun at all. After the morning net call the engine is of and we have wind again and doing almost 6kn. This morning we have porrige for breakfast. Edgar goes back to bed and I found that I downloaded french language on my Storytel reader. Starts listening to that for a while. Around 12 we starts to get more wind and doing 7.5-8 knots. Feels really good after this very slow night.
One afternoon it suddenly flew hundreds and hundreds of flying fishes on the ocean . I saw them near and far away from the boat and in between I saw some medium sizes fishes jumping around. Think it was tuna but not sure. I did catch the flying fish on film.
There was a new call out to the fleet that they needed help on Cepa due to one of the guys passed out and needed som help. Once again some of the boats turn there course to them and on Pec there was a doctor that came to assist and was with the sick man all the way to the hospital. Luckily there was a privet yacht nearby that came and picked them up and rooked them to Nuko Hiva. All went well and he is in good hands. We got an sms from him the day after he had arrived to the hospital that he was well and needs some more tests.
After 18 days on the sea the wind dies out and we only do 2-3 kn. So boring and so rolling. Time for the iron genua to work. The positive thing is that we get less rolling due to the speed and help with the mainsail out. I even can sleep in my one bed for a few hours. Many other of the boats also had put on their engin, but we heard from them later that they got some wind and could sail a bit again.
After 20 days and 13 hours 47 min we have crossed the finish line and can anchor to have a nice sleep in our new made bed. It was totally black since it was around 23 hours when we arrived.